Life Like Proto 2000 BL2 Version 2

Scale:
HO Scale


WOWKit used in this installation

WDK-ATH-5

Which includes the following items:

Decoder
Motherboard

RTR-MB1

Speaker Kit


Installation

This installation is for a HO Scale Life Like Proto 2000 BL2 using a TCS WOW121 Diesel Decoder, RTR-MB1 Motherboard with built in Keep Alive® and UNIV-SH1-C WOWSpeaker kit. Shown prior to installation.
This installation is for a HO Scale Life Like Proto 2000 BL2 using a TCS WOW121 Diesel Decoder, RTR-MB1 Motherboard with built in Keep Alive® and UNIV-SH1-C WOWSpeaker kit. Shown prior to installation.
To start off this install, while gently pulling outwards at each tab highlighted above in red and along each side of the frame, lift the shell off of the frame. Take care to release the handrails as you lift off the shell so they don't break.
To start off this install, while gently pulling outwards at each tab highlighted above in red and along each side of the frame, lift the shell off of the frame. Take care to release the handrails as you lift off the shell so they don't break.
The Life Like Proto 2000 BL2 shown with the shell off. Remove the wires from the original lighting board and remove it from the chassis.
The Life Like Proto 2000 BL2 shown with the shell off. Remove the wires from the original lighting board and remove it from the chassis.
With the board removed, unsolder the original left side track connection and prep them for the new wire leads.
With the board removed, unsolder the original left side track connection and prep them for the new wire leads.
Shown with the track pick ups removed. Trim, tin or lenghten the wire leads as needed and using small lengths of TCS 3/32" and 3/64" shrink tubing, insulate these solder leads.
Shown with the track pick ups removed. Trim, tin or lenghten the wire leads as needed and using small lengths of TCS 3/32" and 3/64" shrink tubing, insulate these solder leads.
The RTR-MB1 has a motor pick up clip pre-attatched to the bottom, so mounting it onto the locomotive could not be easier.
The RTR-MB1 has a motor pick up clip pre-attatched to the bottom, so mounting it onto the locomotive could not be easier.
Attach the RTR-MB1 to the frame and solder the motor and track pickup wires according to the included wiring diagram. Note that the RTR-MB1 is mounted in the reversed orientation to accomodate the height of the decoder under the shell. If you install the RTR-MB1 in the opposite orientation, you may not be able to place the shell properly. Note that this will reverse the connections for your "forward" and "reverse" headlights, but will not affect the motor.
Attach the RTR-MB1 to the frame and solder the motor and track pickup wires according to the included wiring diagram. Note that the RTR-MB1 is mounted in the reversed orientation to accomodate the height of the decoder under the shell. If you install the RTR-MB1 in the opposite orientation, you may not be able to place the shell properly. Note that this will reverse the connections for your "forward" and "reverse" headlights, but will not affect the motor.
The RTR-MB1 has on board 1.5 Volt power supplies to conveniently power all the original 1.5volt bulbs that come with your Athearn locomotive. The front headlight and rear light pads are configured for 1.5 Volt use. Additional 1.5 Volt pads are available for other connections for ditch lights etc. If you prefer to use LED lighting as an option, there are LED solder connection pads. Current limit resistors are built into the board so no external resistor are needed for LED use. We added LEDs in this installation. Using a small dab of hot melt glue, mount the front LED to the end of the light tube.
The RTR-MB1 has on board 1.5 Volt power supplies to conveniently power all the original 1.5volt bulbs that come with your Athearn locomotive. The front headlight and rear light pads are configured for 1.5 Volt use. Additional 1.5 Volt pads are available for other connections for ditch lights etc. If you prefer to use LED lighting as an option, there are LED solder connection pads. Current limit resistors are built into the board so no external resistor are needed for LED use. We added LEDs in this installation. Using a small dab of hot melt glue, mount the front LED to the end of the light tube.
Using a cut off tool, trim the rear light tube to approximately 1/8". Using the same hot melt glue, mount the rear LED to the top of the light tube and inside rear of the shell. We have found that LED light output is brightest when shinning directly into the end of the light tube, but in some circumstances they may be placed along the length of the tube as well with satisfactory results. In doing so, white light LED output would be least affected, while non white LED output will be more affected by placement.
Using a cut off tool, trim the rear light tube to approximately 1/8". Using the same hot melt glue, mount the rear LED to the top of the light tube and inside rear of the shell. We have found that LED light output is brightest when shinning directly into the end of the light tube, but in some circumstances they may be placed along the length of the tube as well with satisfactory results. In doing so, white light LED output would be least affected, while non white LED output will be more affected by placement.
With the 35mm x 16mm speaker inserted into the UNIV-SH1-C housing, using double sided foam tape, mount this assembly to the top rear of the shell in front of the LED. If your speaker enclosure installation covers the portholes on the enclosure, we recommend adding new port hole(s) similar to the original porting. Be sure that the new portholes are the same size and amount of the original and are vented freely into the locomotive We have found introducing a port of the correct size greatly increases the volume and sound quality of the installation. Too much or too little porting decreases the sound quality.
With the 35mm x 16mm speaker inserted into the UNIV-SH1-C housing, using double sided foam tape, mount this assembly to the top rear of the shell in front of the LED. If your speaker enclosure installation covers the portholes on the enclosure, we recommend adding new port hole(s) similar to the original porting. Be sure that the new portholes are the same size and amount of the original and are vented freely into the locomotive We have found introducing a port of the correct size greatly increases the volume and sound quality of the installation. Too much or too little porting decreases the sound quality.
Solder the LED and speaker wire leads to the motherboard according to the included wiring diagram. Note that in this installation, DXI oted to use Function 1 and Function 2 for the healdights since the Motherboard was reversed. These functions were then reprogrammed in accordance with the Function Remapping CV's. You may choose to simply run longer wires to use the proper pads. When attaching the wires to the pads, it is not necessary to insert the wires through the holes. We recommend attaching the wires flat on top of the solder pads.
Solder the LED and speaker wire leads to the motherboard according to the included wiring diagram. Note that in this installation, DXI oted to use Function 1 and Function 2 for the healdights since the Motherboard was reversed. These functions were then reprogrammed in accordance with the Function Remapping CV's. You may choose to simply run longer wires to use the proper pads. When attaching the wires to the pads, it is not necessary to insert the wires through the holes. We recommend attaching the wires flat on top of the solder pads.
You can now plug in your WOW121 decoder.Lastly, in order to keep the wires neat and prevent possible shorts, lace the wires into a bundle using lacing cord, which is a wax impregnated string used for wire bundling and making harnesses. There are many choices of lacing cord available from Digikey www.digikey.com. We use part number 802534B BK032-NDNow you can close up the locomotive. Be sure to be mindful of wire routing and reassembly of the shell as to not damage or foul the installation. Your Life Like Proto 2000 BL2 is now WOWSound equipped and ready to roll!
You can now plug in your WOW121 decoder.Lastly, in order to keep the wires neat and prevent possible shorts, lace the wires into a bundle using lacing cord, which is a wax impregnated string used for wire bundling and making harnesses. There are many choices of lacing cord available from Digikey www.digikey.com. We use part number 802534B BK032-NDNow you can close up the locomotive. Be sure to be mindful of wire routing and reassembly of the shell as to not damage or foul the installation. Your Life Like Proto 2000 BL2 is now WOWSound equipped and ready to roll!

Important Soldering Tip

Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. Over time, the acidic properties of liquid or paste flux will begin eating away at the fiberglass PCB and will damage it. Use only Rosin-core solder or no-clean flux approved for electronics use.

TCS recommends the use of Kester "44" Sn63 Pb37, .015" diameter Rosin-core solder. Kester part number 24-6337-0007.

You can order this solder from the following retailers:
Digikey - PN:KE1110-ND
Techni-Tool - PN:488SO6775

Other solder tips

When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more than a 1/32 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire than half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire