Kato GP35

Scale:
HO Scale


WOWKit used in this installation

WDK-ATL-2

Which includes the following items:

Decoder
Motherboard

AK-MB1

Speaker Kit


Installation

This installation documentation is for the HO-Scale Kato GP35. This installation uses the TCS WOW121-Diesel Decoder, AK-MB1 with Keep Alive and UNIV-SH4-C WOWSpeaker Kit.

The Kato GP35 shown prior to installation. To start the installation, remove the couplers and gently squeeze the sides of the shell toward the bottom and lift up, leaving the platform in place.
The Kato GP35 shown prior to installation. To start the installation, remove the couplers and gently squeeze the sides of the shell toward the bottom and lift up, leaving the platform in place.
Shown with the shell off. Bend the motor pickup tabs out of the way, then remove the two screws on the original lighting board and remove the board.
Shown with the shell off. Bend the motor pickup tabs out of the way, then remove the two screws on the original lighting board and remove the board.
With the lighting board removed, trim or lengthen, then tin the wire leads as necessary. Use the two motor pick up tabs and solder a new connection point to each of these. Solder a new wire lead to each and insulate them with shrink tubing.
With the lighting board removed, trim or lengthen, then tin the wire leads as necessary. Use the two motor pick up tabs and solder a new connection point to each of these. Solder a new wire lead to each and insulate them with shrink tubing.
In this installation, the original LEDs will be reused. Simply clip them off of the original motherboard and tin the metal leads, then attach new wire leads to them to prepare for installation. Insulate this connection with shrink tubing.
In this installation, the original LEDs will be reused. Simply clip them off of the original motherboard and tin the metal leads, then attach new wire leads to them to prepare for installation. Insulate this connection with shrink tubing.
Inside the top of the shell is a weight that must be modified to allow space for the components. Remove the screw highlighted above in red and remove the weight from the shell.
Inside the top of the shell is a weight that must be modified to allow space for the components. Remove the screw highlighted above in red and remove the weight from the shell.
Using a hack saw or similar, cut the portion highlighted in gold from the weight.
Using a hack saw or similar, cut the portion highlighted in gold from the weight.
With the weight removed, trim the front lighting tube to accept the LED that will face into it.
With the weight removed, trim the front lighting tube to accept the LED that will face into it.
Do the same for the rear light tube.
Do the same for the rear light tube.
Using a small dab of hot melt glue, mount the newly wired LEDs into the spaces created for them in the light tubes.
Using a small dab of hot melt glue, mount the newly wired LEDs into the spaces created for them in the light tubes.
Replace the modified shell weight, routing the wires as shown for the LEDs.
Replace the modified shell weight, routing the wires as shown for the LEDs.
Using foam double-sided tape, mount the AK-MB1 motherboard to the locomotive as shown. Next, with the 25mm x 14mm speaker inserted into the UNIV-SH4-C speaker housing and using the same tape, mount it onto the frame as shown. If your speaker enclosure installation covers the portholes on the enclosure, we recommend adding new porthole(s) similar to the original porting. Be sure that the new portholes are the same size and amount of the original and are vented freely into the locomotive We have found introducing a port of the correct size greatly increases the volume and sound quality of the installation. Too much or too little porting decreases the sound quality. Solder the track pick up, motor, lighting and speaker leads to the motherboard according to the included wiring diagram.
Using foam double-sided tape, mount the AK-MB1 motherboard to the locomotive as shown. Next, with the 25mm x 14mm speaker inserted into the UNIV-SH4-C speaker housing and using the same tape, mount it onto the frame as shown. If your speaker enclosure installation covers the portholes on the enclosure, we recommend adding new porthole(s) similar to the original porting. Be sure that the new portholes are the same size and amount of the original and are vented freely into the locomotive We have found introducing a port of the correct size greatly increases the volume and sound quality of the installation. Too much or too little porting decreases the sound quality. Solder the track pick up, motor, lighting and speaker leads to the motherboard according to the included wiring diagram.
You can now plug in the WOW121 decoder
You can now plug in the WOW121 decoder
Lastly, in order to keep the wires neat and prevent possible shorts, lace the wires into a bundle using lacing cord. Now you can close up the locomotive and reinstall the coupler assemblies. Be sure to be mindful of wire routing and reassembly of the shell as to not damage or foul the installation. Your Kato GP35 is now WOWSound equipped and ready to roll!
Lastly, in order to keep the wires neat and prevent possible shorts, lace the wires into a bundle using lacing cord. Now you can close up the locomotive and reinstall the coupler assemblies. Be sure to be mindful of wire routing and reassembly of the shell as to not damage or foul the installation. Your Kato GP35 is now WOWSound equipped and ready to roll!

Important Soldering Tip

Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. Over time, the acidic properties of liquid or paste flux will begin eating away at the fiberglass PCB and will damage it. Use only Rosin-core solder or no-clean flux approved for electronics use.

TCS recommends the use of Kester "44" Sn63 Pb37, .015" diameter Rosin-core solder. Kester part number 24-6337-0007.

You can order this solder from the following retailers:
Digikey - PN:KE1110-ND
Techni-Tool - PN:488SO6775

Other solder tips

When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more than a 1/32 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire than half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire