Atlas EMD GP40

Scale:
HO Scale


WOWKit used in this installation

WDK-ATL-3

Which includes the following items:

Decoder
Motherboard

AK-MB1

Speaker Kit


Installation

This installation is for a HO-Scale Atlas GP40 using a TCS WOW121-Diesel Decoder and AK-MB1.

HO-Scale Atlas GP40 prior to WOW121-Diesel Decoder, AK-MB1, and UNIV-SH1-C installation.
HO-Scale Atlas GP40 prior to WOW121-Diesel Decoder, AK-MB1, and UNIV-SH1-C installation.
To start off this install, we must first remove the front and rear couplers and their housings. Once that is complete, the shell will lift off of the chassis. Do this by holding the fuel tank with one hand and lifting the shell off by pressing up underneath the end platforms with your other hand.
To start off this install, we must first remove the front and rear couplers and their housings. Once that is complete, the shell will lift off of the chassis. Do this by holding the fuel tank with one hand and lifting the shell off by pressing up underneath the end platforms with your other hand.
With the shell off, we can now remove the factory light board. First remove any wire clips and disconnect the wires from the board. Once the wires are loose, the factory light board can easily be unclipped from the motor mount.
With the shell off, we can now remove the factory light board. First remove any wire clips and disconnect the wires from the board. Once the wires are loose, the factory light board can easily be unclipped from the motor mount.
Now with the factory light board removed, we can also remove both chassis weights. Make sure to hold onto the front weight and its screw as it will be re-installed later on.
Now with the factory light board removed, we can also remove both chassis weights. Make sure to hold onto the front weight and its screw as it will be re-installed later on.
Now with the weights removed, we can now clip in the AK-MB1. Next, solder your motor leads and front and rear pickup leads to the AK-MB1.
Now with the weights removed, we can now clip in the AK-MB1. Next, solder your motor leads and front and rear pickup leads to the AK-MB1.
Next, we can attach leads to our front 3mm LED and solder the other ends to our AK-MB1 For the installers convenience, all lighting functions feature onboard current limiting resistors. Once complete, we can remount the front weight and secure the LED down in the lighting channel. Make sure to insulate the LED leads from each other as well as the weight. In our install, we used a 3mm Sunny White LED (Item 1288).
Next, we can attach leads to our front 3mm LED and solder the other ends to our AK-MB1 For the installers convenience, all lighting functions feature onboard current limiting resistors. Once complete, we can remount the front weight and secure the LED down in the lighting channel. Make sure to insulate the LED leads from each other as well as the weight. In our install, we used a 3mm Sunny White LED (Item 1288).
Next, we can attach a SMD LED to the rear light. In our install, we used a Sunny White LED (Item 1417) and glued it to the rear light optic with some CA glue. Once attached, we can now mount our speaker housing kit. In order to keep it from rattling and moving around, some double-sided tape or CA glue secured it to the ceiling of the locomotives shell. After attaching the SMD LED to the optic and mounting our UNIV-SH1-C, we can now solder our rear light and speaker leads to the pads on the AK-MB1.
Next, we can attach a SMD LED to the rear light. In our install, we used a Sunny White LED (Item 1417) and glued it to the rear light optic with some CA glue. Once attached, we can now mount our speaker housing kit. In order to keep it from rattling and moving around, some double-sided tape or CA glue secured it to the ceiling of the locomotives shell. After attaching the SMD LED to the optic and mounting our UNIV-SH1-C, we can now solder our rear light and speaker leads to the pads on the AK-MB1.
Lastly, in order to keep the wires neat and prevent possible shorts, lace the wires into a bundle using lacing cord. Now you can close up the locomotive and reinstall the coupler assemblies. Be sure to be mindful of wire routing and reassembly of the shell as to not damage or foul the installation. Your Atlas GP40 is now WOWSound equipped and ready to roll!
Lastly, in order to keep the wires neat and prevent possible shorts, lace the wires into a bundle using lacing cord. Now you can close up the locomotive and reinstall the coupler assemblies. Be sure to be mindful of wire routing and reassembly of the shell as to not damage or foul the installation. Your Atlas GP40 is now WOWSound equipped and ready to roll!

Important Soldering Tip

Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. Over time, the acidic properties of liquid or paste flux will begin eating away at the fiberglass PCB and will damage it. Use only Rosin-core solder or no-clean flux approved for electronics use.

TCS recommends the use of Kester "44" Sn63 Pb37, .015" diameter Rosin-core solder. Kester part number 24-6337-0007.

You can order this solder from the following retailers:
Digikey - PN:KE1110-ND
Techni-Tool - PN:488SO6775

Other solder tips

When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more than a 1/32 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire than half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire

Lacing Cord

In order to keep the wires neat and prevent possible shorts, we recommend lacing the wires into a bundle using lacing cord. Lacing cord is a wax impregnated string used for wire bundling and making harnesses. There are many choices of lacing cord available from Digikey www.digikey.com. 
We use part number 802534B BK032-ND