Walthers Proto 2000 Heritage 0-8-0

Scale:
HO Scale


WOWKit used in this installation

WSK-WAL-1

Which includes the following items:

Decoder
Motherboard

P2K-MB1

Speaker Kit


Installation

Train Control Systems P2K Motherboard & WOW121 decoder installed in HO Scale Walthers Proto2000 Heritage 0-8-0. The P2K-MB1 includes onboard Keep Alive® to keep you running smoothly over troublesome track.

Walthers Proto2000 0-8-0 prior to P2K Motherboard and WOW121 decoder installation.
Walthers Proto2000 0-8-0 prior to P2K Motherboard and WOW121 decoder installation.
To open the tender, first remove all four screws on the underside of the tender marked with red circles as seen above. Once removed, the shell will pull right off of the tender chassis.
To open the tender, first remove all four screws on the underside of the tender marked with red circles as seen above. Once removed, the shell will pull right off of the tender chassis.
This is the factory lightboard and rearlight LED. Note: Older versions of this locomotive came with a bulb in the tender. The proedures are still the same regardless. Unplug the 8-pin socket from the factory light board and remove the two screws to release the factory lightboard from the tender weight. Make sure to save these two screws, as they will be used to secure the P2K Motherboard to the tender.
This is the factory lightboard and rearlight LED. Note: Older versions of this locomotive came with a bulb in the tender. The proedures are still the same regardless. Unplug the 8-pin socket from the factory light board and remove the two screws to release the factory lightboard from the tender weight. Make sure to save these two screws, as they will be used to secure the P2K Motherboard to the tender.
With the factory lightboard removed, unscrew the single screw holding the tender weight to the chassis and lift it off of the tender. This will help with removing the LED/bulb if the wires are pinched underneath the weight.
With the factory lightboard removed, unscrew the single screw holding the tender weight to the chassis and lift it off of the tender. This will help with removing the LED/bulb if the wires are pinched underneath the weight.
Next, remove both the yellow and blue wire for the rear light LED/bulb from the 8-pin socket. Pull the LED/bulb and wires from LED/bulb socket in the weight.
Next, remove both the yellow and blue wire for the rear light LED/bulb from the 8-pin socket. Pull the LED/bulb and wires from LED/bulb socket in the weight.
With the LED/bulb removed, re-install the tender weight and screw.
With the LED/bulb removed, re-install the tender weight and screw.
Next, install the P2K Motherboard using the two screws you removed from the factory light board previously. At this time, we also made our speaker connection and used our 2-Pin Mini Connector with purple wires (item #1521).
Next, install the P2K Motherboard using the two screws you removed from the factory light board previously. At this time, we also made our speaker connection and used our 2-Pin Mini Connector with purple wires (item #1521).
Next, connect the 8-Pin socket to the P2K Motherboard, making sure to align socket 1 (orange) with pin 1 on the motherboard.
Next, connect the 8-Pin socket to the P2K Motherboard, making sure to align socket 1 (orange) with pin 1 on the motherboard.
Next, install the WOW121 Decoder onto the P2K Motherboard as seen in the above picture.
Next, install the WOW121 Decoder onto the P2K Motherboard as seen in the above picture.
With the P2K Motherboard and WOW121 Decoder installed, we now need to install a speaker in the tender. In our install, we used our 20mm WOWSpeaker (item #1554) and mounted it to the underside of the tender load. First, mark the area around the speaker and using a #68 drill bit, drill about 40-50 holes within your markings.
With the P2K Motherboard and WOW121 Decoder installed, we now need to install a speaker in the tender. In our install, we used our 20mm WOWSpeaker (item #1554) and mounted it to the underside of the tender load. First, mark the area around the speaker and using a #68 drill bit, drill about 40-50 holes within your markings.
This is a top view of the tender with the micro-holes drilled for the speaker. Once back together, these holes will disappear into the coal load.
This is a top view of the tender with the micro-holes drilled for the speaker. Once back together, these holes will disappear into the coal load.
With the holes drilled, next remove the tape from the adesive seal on the WOWSpeaker and attach the speaker to the underside of the coal load. Next, use some hot glue to completly seal the WOWSpeaker to the coal load. Next, connect your speaker wires and screw the tender shell back onto the tender chassis, making sure not to pinch the speaker wires.
With the holes drilled, next remove the tape from the adesive seal on the WOWSpeaker and attach the speaker to the underside of the coal load. Next, use some hot glue to completly seal the WOWSpeaker to the coal load. Next, connect your speaker wires and screw the tender shell back onto the tender chassis, making sure not to pinch the speaker wires.
In our locomotive, we had factory incandescent bulbs as this is an older model locomotive. Since the P2K Motherboard has an LED for the reverse light, we only had to change the front light. This is the factory incandescent light bulb prior to any changes. First, remove the two black contact clips and the incandescent bulb from the boiler.
In our locomotive, we had factory incandescent bulbs as this is an older model locomotive. Since the P2K Motherboard has an LED for the reverse light, we only had to change the front light. This is the factory incandescent light bulb prior to any changes. First, remove the two black contact clips and the incandescent bulb from the boiler.
With the bulb removed, next carefully pull the white and blue wires outward to give some working room. Next, tin (apply solder) to the wires.
With the bulb removed, next carefully pull the white and blue wires outward to give some working room. Next, tin (apply solder) to the wires.
For our install, we decided to use our 2-Pin Mini connector (Item #1519 ) in between the factory wires and LED.
For our install, we decided to use our 2-Pin Mini connector (Item #1519 ) in between the factory wires and LED.
Next, solder the second half of the connector to the LED. We trimmed the LED legs and attached the black wire to the short leg. Make sure to insulate your solder connections either with 1/16" Heat Shrink Tubing(Item #1320) or Kapton tape.
Next, solder the second half of the connector to the LED. We trimmed the LED legs and attached the black wire to the short leg. Make sure to insulate your solder connections either with 1/16" Heat Shrink Tubing(Item #1320) or Kapton tape.
Next, press the LED into the LED bracket on the rear side of the firebox door. Following our wiring colors, connect the 2-Pin Mini Connector with white to black and blue to red. Finally, tuck the wires into the boiler and re-attach the firebox door to the boiler. You have now installed a TCS P2K Motherboard and WOW121 decoder into your HO-Scale Proto 2000 Heritage 0-8-0.
Next, press the LED into the LED bracket on the rear side of the firebox door. Following our wiring colors, connect the 2-Pin Mini Connector with white to black and blue to red. Finally, tuck the wires into the boiler and re-attach the firebox door to the boiler. You have now installed a TCS P2K Motherboard and WOW121 decoder into your HO-Scale Proto 2000 Heritage 0-8-0.

Important Soldering Tip

Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. Over time, the acidic properties of liquid or paste flux will begin eating away at the fiberglass PCB and will damage it. Use only Rosin-core solder or no-clean flux approved for electronics use.

TCS recommends the use of Kester "44" Sn63 Pb37, .015" diameter Rosin-core solder. Kester part number 24-6337-0007.

You can order this solder from the following retailers:
Digikey - PN:KE1110-ND
Techni-Tool - PN:488SO6775

Other solder tips

When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more than a 1/32 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire than half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire