Oriental Models NW2

Scale:
HO Scale


This installation uses the following decoder:

M1



This installation of TCS M1 Decoder is for HO Scale Oriental Models NW2 and was performed by Robert White.

I started by drilling out the head and rear light locations first with a 1/16 bit and then with a 3/32 drill bit. This created holes large enough to accommodate Miniatronics (18-201-10) 1.5 Volt 40mA 2.4mm bulbs. I used 330ohm 1/4 watt resistors to protect the bulbs. I replaced the original motor with a Sagami can motor. The gears and gear tower are original. I used stick gum to attach the M1 decoder to the top of the motor. Also used stick gum to hold the bulb wires in place to the inside of the engine shell.
I started by drilling out the head and rear light locations first with a 1/16 bit and then with a 3/32 drill bit. This created holes large enough to accommodate Miniatronics (18-201-10) 1.5 Volt 40mA 2.4mm bulbs. I used 330ohm 1/4 watt resistors to protect the bulbs. I replaced the original motor with a Sagami can motor. The gears and gear tower are original. I used stick gum to attach the M1 decoder to the top of the motor. Also used stick gum to hold the bulb wires in place to the inside of the engine shell.
Decoder wire attachments are as follows: Red wire to front tower (right rail pickup) Black wire to rear tower (left rail pickup) Orange wire to orange motor lead Gray wire to blue motor lead Blue wire to front bulb lead and rear bulb lead White wire to 330 ohm resistor to other front bulb lead
Decoder wire attachments are as follows: Red wire to front tower (right rail pickup) Black wire to rear tower (left rail pickup) Orange wire to orange motor lead Gray wire to blue motor lead Blue wire to front bulb lead and rear bulb lead White wire to 330 ohm resistor to other front bulb lead
I used heat shrink tubing to protect the wire to resistors and wire to wire solder connections. Also had to use extra yellow and white wire leads to insure the resistors cleared the motor when re-assembling the engine. Engine was programmed to engine road number 183 and runs great at all speeds but especially at crawl to slow speeds. Just what a switching yard needs!
I used heat shrink tubing to protect the wire to resistors and wire to wire solder connections. Also had to use extra yellow and white wire leads to insure the resistors cleared the motor when re-assembling the engine. Engine was programmed to engine road number 183 and runs great at all speeds but especially at crawl to slow speeds. Just what a switching yard needs!

Important Soldering Tip

Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. Over time, the acidic properties of liquid or paste flux will begin eating away at the fiberglass PCB and will damage it. Use only Rosin-core solder or no-clean flux approved for electronics use.

TCS recommends the use of Kester "44" Sn63 Pb37, .015" diameter Rosin-core solder. Kester part number 24-6337-0007.

You can order this solder from the following retailers:
Digikey - PN:KE1110-ND
Techni-Tool - PN:488SO6775

Other solder tips

When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more than a 1/32 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire than half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire