Hornby 0-4-0 Tank

Scale:
HO Scale


This installation uses the following decoder:

M1



TCS M1 Decoder Installation for HO-Scale Hornby 0-4-0 Tank Locomotive. It was performed by Robert Lewis of Tilehust, Reading, United Kingdom.

This is a Hornby (Triang-Hornby) 0-4-0 Tank locomotive of a fictitious design, often found in "starter" sets. The first versions were introduced in 1960, and during its long production run was available in many different colors.
This is a Hornby (Triang-Hornby) 0-4-0 Tank locomotive of a fictitious design, often found in "starter" sets. The first versions were introduced in 1960, and during its long production run was available in many different colors.
To remove the body undo the screw at the rear of the cab. Lift the body clear, it is retained in position at the front by 2 chassis lugs which pass through the plastic body just underneath the front of the smokebox.
To remove the body undo the screw at the rear of the cab. Lift the body clear, it is retained in position at the front by 2 chassis lugs which pass through the plastic body just underneath the front of the smokebox.
The chassis is of the live design. current being collected by sprung contacts on both wheels on one side, the other feed being collected through the live axle passing through the metal chassis. De-solder the red wire from the motor brush terminal (1), and the joint with the brown wire & capacitor (3). Also de-solder and remove the capacitor from the solder tag (2).
The chassis is of the live design. current being collected by sprung contacts on both wheels on one side, the other feed being collected through the live axle passing through the metal chassis. De-solder the red wire from the motor brush terminal (1), and the joint with the brown wire & capacitor (3). Also de-solder and remove the capacitor from the solder tag (2).
Solder the red decoder wire to the solder tag, and the black wire to the brown wire from the wheel pick up, insulate this joint. Solder the orange wire to the right hand side brush terminal and the grey to the left. A length of insulation sleeving is required on the right (and left) hand arm of the brush retaining spring. I have insulated the unused wires and bundled them together with short strips of insulating sleeving. The decoder is stuck inside the smoke box using double sided tape. Test the installation before re-fitting the body and the retaining screw.
Solder the red decoder wire to the solder tag, and the black wire to the brown wire from the wheel pick up, insulate this joint. Solder the orange wire to the right hand side brush terminal and the grey to the left. A length of insulation sleeving is required on the right (and left) hand arm of the brush retaining spring. I have insulated the unused wires and bundled them together with short strips of insulating sleeving. The decoder is stuck inside the smoke box using double sided tape. Test the installation before re-fitting the body and the retaining screw.

Important Soldering Tip

Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. Over time, the acidic properties of liquid or paste flux will begin eating away at the fiberglass PCB and will damage it. Use only Rosin-core solder or no-clean flux approved for electronics use.

TCS recommends the use of Kester "44" Sn63 Pb37, .015" diameter Rosin-core solder. Kester part number 24-6337-0007.

You can order this solder from the following retailers:
Digikey - PN:KE1110-ND
Techni-Tool - PN:488SO6775

Other solder tips

When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more than a 1/32 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire than half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire