Bachmann 0-6-0 Saddle Tank

Scale:
HO Scale


This installation uses the following decoder:

M1



This installation of TCS M1 digital decoder is for HO-Scale Bachmann 0-6-0 Saddle Tank Locomotive and was performed by a TCS Customer.

This loco runs good with Dither (digital pulse power) setting of CV56=4 and CV57=30. The M1 decoder was hard-wired into the circuit board supplied with the loco, it easily fits because of its small size. The trickiest part of the installation is not installing the decoder but getting the shell off and on the chassis. The two yellow capacitors across the motor must be removed.

To remove the shell from chassis first remove this frame piece here. There is one each side. Remove one screw from the bottom of chassis located under the smoke box. Front of chassis will come out first then slide chassis forward a bit to release the cab end of the chassis from the shell.
To remove the shell from chassis first remove this frame piece here. There is one each side. Remove one screw from the bottom of chassis located under the smoke box. Front of chassis will come out first then slide chassis forward a bit to release the cab end of the chassis from the shell.
This shows a M1 decoder with leads trimmed and tinned ready for installation in the Bachmann 0-6-0 Saddle Tank steam engine. Lead lengths were cut to the following lengths. Blue 15/16", Gray 15/16", Red, 9/16", Orange 1/2", Black 1/2", Yellow 7/16", White 7/8". Decoder leads are connected to the loco circuit board as follows: Red = 8, Orange = 1, Yellow = 2, Black = 4, Grey = 5, White = 6, Blue = 7. You can also use the instructions sheet supplied with the loco as a reference in determining which color wire goes where on the light board.
This shows a M1 decoder with leads trimmed and tinned ready for installation in the Bachmann 0-6-0 Saddle Tank steam engine. Lead lengths were cut to the following lengths. Blue 15/16", Gray 15/16", Red, 9/16", Orange 1/2", Black 1/2", Yellow 7/16", White 7/8". Decoder leads are connected to the loco circuit board as follows: Red = 8, Orange = 1, Yellow = 2, Black = 4, Grey = 5, White = 6, Blue = 7. You can also use the instructions sheet supplied with the loco as a reference in determining which color wire goes where on the light board.
This shows the light board in front of the motor before decoder is installed. The two copper jumpers on the front edge of the circuit board must be removed. One jumper is on the right edge between pins 1 and 8, the other jumper is in the middle between pins 4 and 6. After removing the jumpers, tin all 8 pins of the board (apply solder to them). Remove these jumpers.
This shows the light board in front of the motor before decoder is installed. The two copper jumpers on the front edge of the circuit board must be removed. One jumper is on the right edge between pins 1 and 8, the other jumper is in the middle between pins 4 and 6. After removing the jumpers, tin all 8 pins of the board (apply solder to them). Remove these jumpers.
This photo shows before the decoder is installed. The two copper jumpers on the front edge of the circuit board must be removed. One jumper is on the right edge between pins 1 and 8, the other jumper is the middle between pins 4 and 6. After removing the jumpers, tin all 8 pins of the board (apply solder to them). Remove these yellow capacitors by clipping the leads near the motor brushes. Do not attempt to unsolder them. There is no need to remove the two green inductors with the silver, gold, violet, yellow bands. Remove two jumpers.
This photo shows before the decoder is installed. The two copper jumpers on the front edge of the circuit board must be removed. One jumper is on the right edge between pins 1 and 8, the other jumper is the middle between pins 4 and 6. After removing the jumpers, tin all 8 pins of the board (apply solder to them). Remove these yellow capacitors by clipping the leads near the motor brushes. Do not attempt to unsolder them. There is no need to remove the two green inductors with the silver, gold, violet, yellow bands. Remove two jumpers.
This shows M1 decoder installed in front of the motor. Notice the yellow capacitors that were across the motor brushes are removed. The decoder is held in place with a dab of glue between the decoder and the loco circuit board. M1 decoder.
This shows M1 decoder installed in front of the motor. Notice the yellow capacitors that were across the motor brushes are removed. The decoder is held in place with a dab of glue between the decoder and the loco circuit board. M1 decoder.
This shows M1 decoder installed in front of the motor. The decoder is held in place with a dab of glue between the decoder and the loco circuit board. Decoder leads are connected as follows: Red = 8, Orange = 1, Yellow = 2, Black = 4, Grey = 5, White = 6, Blue = 7. The decoder should face up as shown in the picture with yellow, orange, black, red wires showing on top.
This shows M1 decoder installed in front of the motor. The decoder is held in place with a dab of glue between the decoder and the loco circuit board. Decoder leads are connected as follows: Red = 8, Orange = 1, Yellow = 2, Black = 4, Grey = 5, White = 6, Blue = 7. The decoder should face up as shown in the picture with yellow, orange, black, red wires showing on top.
This shows M1 decoder installed in front of the motor. The decoder is held in place with a dab of glue between the decoder and the loco circuit board. Decoder leads are connected as follows: Red = 8, Orange = 1, Yellow = 2, Black = 4, Grey = 5, White = 6, Blue = 7. The decoder should face up as shown in the picture with yellow, orange, black, red wires showing on top.
This shows M1 decoder installed in front of the motor. The decoder is held in place with a dab of glue between the decoder and the loco circuit board. Decoder leads are connected as follows: Red = 8, Orange = 1, Yellow = 2, Black = 4, Grey = 5, White = 6, Blue = 7. The decoder should face up as shown in the picture with yellow, orange, black, red wires showing on top.

Important Soldering Tip

Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. Over time, the acidic properties of liquid or paste flux will begin eating away at the fiberglass PCB and will damage it. Use only Rosin-core solder or no-clean flux approved for electronics use.

TCS recommends the use of Kester "44" Sn63 Pb37, .015" diameter Rosin-core solder. Kester part number 24-6337-0007.

You can order this solder from the following retailers:
Digikey - PN:KE1110-ND
Techni-Tool - PN:488SO6775

Other solder tips

When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more than a 1/32 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire than half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire