KATO ALC-42 Siemens Charger

Scale:
N Scale


This installation uses the following decoder:




This installation documentation is for the N-scale KATO ALC-42 Siemens Charger. This installation uses the K7D4 decoder, and was performed by TCS.

Important note: The locomotive which we installed had a very tight shell. The removal process was very difficult and required a bit of force and skillful placement of prybars to separate the shell from the chassis. For a visual demonstration, you can watch this YouTube Video.

This model with this decoder configuration currently only features provisions for a forward and reverse headlight. The forward headlight LED will operate the forward headlight, number boards, and both ditch lights. Without modification, this model does not include directional markers, flashing ditch lights, or corridor lights. TCS is currently developing a lighting kit which will add forward-facing (reverse running) markers, corridor lights, and Keep Alive® to the installation. Stay tuned! This installation documentation will be updated once that product is available.

The KATO N-scale ALC-42 Siemens Charger shown prior to installation. To remove the shell from this locomotive, you need to carefully separate the flexible pastic rail that goes around the perimeter of the locomotive at the bottom. Then, pull upward on the top of the shell while spreading the sides near the rear of the shell to release the clips which hold it in place.
The KATO N-scale ALC-42 Siemens Charger shown prior to installation. To remove the shell from this locomotive, you need to carefully separate the flexible pastic rail that goes around the perimeter of the locomotive at the bottom. Then, pull upward on the top of the shell while spreading the sides near the rear of the shell to release the clips which hold it in place.
Shown with the shell removed. Near the front (left) and rear (right), note the bump in the metal casting - this is what the shell clips onto.
Shown with the shell removed. Near the front (left) and rear (right), note the bump in the metal casting - this is what the shell clips onto.
To remove the decoder (or DC light board), start by removing the black plastic clip from the top of the decoder (or DC light board) as shown.
To remove the decoder (or DC light board), start by removing the black plastic clip from the top of the decoder (or DC light board) as shown.
To remove the decoder or light board from the chassis, use a small, flat screwdriver and gently lift up on the decoder as shown. At the same time, push or pull the decoder in the direction as shown. The decoder will slide right out as long as the right side is free of the bumps on the chassis. With the original board removed, take off the motor clips and set them with the black plastic clip. You will need them for the new decoder.
To remove the decoder or light board from the chassis, use a small, flat screwdriver and gently lift up on the decoder as shown. At the same time, push or pull the decoder in the direction as shown. The decoder will slide right out as long as the right side is free of the bumps on the chassis. With the original board removed, take off the motor clips and set them with the black plastic clip. You will need them for the new decoder.
All three of the motor parts shown. These will need to be installed onto the decoder. Avoid touching the motor clips with bare fingers as much as possible. Oils or other contaminents can reduce the effectiveness of the contact surface.
All three of the motor parts shown. These will need to be installed onto the decoder. Avoid touching the motor clips with bare fingers as much as possible. Oils or other contaminents can reduce the effectiveness of the contact surface.
The K7D4 decoder shown with the motor clips installed. This must be done before installing the decoder into the model.
The K7D4 decoder shown with the motor clips installed. This must be done before installing the decoder into the model.
Shown with the K7D4 decoder installed. To install the decoder, reverse the steps to remove the original board. Start by inserting the rear (right) side of the decoder on an angle under the tab on the chassis as shown. Next, tip the decoder down, spreading the motor tabs slightly until they slip over the motor contacts. Finally, once the decoder is nearly flat, gently slide it forward, making sure that all of the contacts are touching the tabs on the chassis.
Shown with the K7D4 decoder installed. To install the decoder, reverse the steps to remove the original board. Start by inserting the rear (right) side of the decoder on an angle under the tab on the chassis as shown. Next, tip the decoder down, spreading the motor tabs slightly until they slip over the motor contacts. Finally, once the decoder is nearly flat, gently slide it forward, making sure that all of the contacts are touching the tabs on the chassis.
An Update to our Installation Guide: For the shell to sit flush with the frame, you will need to remove the plastic 'U' on the shell of the locomotive. You can use a pair of cutters to snip the plastic off the shell. In this picture it has already been removed. Once this is done the shell will be able to sit flush on the frame with the decoder installed.
An Update to our Installation Guide: For the shell to sit flush with the frame, you will need to remove the plastic 'U' on the shell of the locomotive. You can use a pair of cutters to snip the plastic off the shell. In this picture it has already been removed. Once this is done the shell will be able to sit flush on the frame with the decoder installed.

Important Soldering Tip

Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. Over time, the acidic properties of liquid or paste flux will begin eating away at the fiberglass PCB and will damage it. Use only Rosin-core solder or no-clean flux approved for electronics use.

TCS recommends the use of Kester "44" Sn63 Pb37, .015" diameter Rosin-core solder. Kester part number 24-6337-0007.

You can order this solder from the following retailers:
Digikey - PN:KE1110-ND
Techni-Tool - PN:488SO6775

Other solder tips

When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more than a 1/32 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire than half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire