Kato FEF 4-8-4

Scale:
N Scale


This installation uses the following decoder:


This installation is for a N Scale Kato FEF 4-8-4 using a TCS WOW101-Steam-KA Decoder and was performed by TCS.

***Please note: This is a rather complex install and requires some light modification to the locomotive.

Its always best to plan and place major components prior to any modicfication to the locomotive to avoid any issues down the road.***

N-Scale Kato FEF 4-8-4 prior to WOW101-Steam-KA decoder installation.
N-Scale Kato FEF 4-8-4 prior to WOW101-Steam-KA decoder installation.
N-Scale Kato FEF 4-8-4 prior to WOW101-Steam-KA decoder installation.
N-Scale Kato FEF 4-8-4 prior to WOW101-Steam-KA decoder installation.
In order to protect the highly detailed components on the this locomotive during the decoder install, we need to first remove the smoke deflectors. Do this by carefully pulling them out and away from the locomotive.
In order to protect the highly detailed components on the this locomotive during the decoder install, we need to first remove the smoke deflectors. Do this by carefully pulling them out and away from the locomotive.
Above is the locomotive with the smoke deflectors removed.
Above is the locomotive with the smoke deflectors removed.
Next, we need to remove the locomotives cab roof. This is easily done by pressing down on the overhang and lifting it off.
Next, we need to remove the locomotives cab roof. This is easily done by pressing down on the overhang and lifting it off.
With the roof removed, we next need to lift out the cab window glazing.
With the roof removed, we next need to lift out the cab window glazing.
With the window glazing removed, we now have access to the screw in the cab that secures the shell to the chassis. Remove this screw and save it for re-assembly later on.
With the window glazing removed, we now have access to the screw in the cab that secures the shell to the chassis. Remove this screw and save it for re-assembly later on.
Next, carefully hold onto the drivers with one hand and remove the locomotives shell. The rear of the shell must be pulled up first.
Next, carefully hold onto the drivers with one hand and remove the locomotives shell. The rear of the shell must be pulled up first.
The above picture shows the factory light board, motor lead clip bracket, and clips.
The above picture shows the factory light board, motor lead clip bracket, and clips.
In order to remove the factory light board, we must first dettach the motor lead clip bracket and clips. Remove the bracket using a flathead screwdriver or tweezers.
In order to remove the factory light board, we must first dettach the motor lead clip bracket and clips. Remove the bracket using a flathead screwdriver or tweezers.
Next, we need to remove the clips. Do this by using a flat head screwdriver or tweezers to pull the clips outward and away from the factory light board.
Next, we need to remove the clips. Do this by using a flat head screwdriver or tweezers to pull the clips outward and away from the factory light board.
With the motor lead clips detached, we now can remove the factory light board. The board is easily removed by sliding it out towards the rear(right in picture above) of the locomotive.
With the motor lead clips detached, we now can remove the factory light board. The board is easily removed by sliding it out towards the rear(right in picture above) of the locomotive.
Next, desolder the motor lead clips from the wire leads.
Next, desolder the motor lead clips from the wire leads.
With the motor leads desoldered, we can now wire in our loco to tender connector for the headlight and motor. In order to still be able to detach the tender from the locomotive, we used our 4-Pin Micro Connector (Item # 1491), rather than just hardwiring straight to the decoder. Pin 1 (white) and Pin 2 (Black) were used for our Golden White Surface Mount LED (Item 1311). We simply glued the LED to the light bar after making our solder connections and adding a 1/6watt 1K resister. Pins 3 & 4 (both black) were then used for the motor leads.
With the motor leads desoldered, we can now wire in our loco to tender connector for the headlight and motor. In order to still be able to detach the tender from the locomotive, we used our 4-Pin Micro Connector (Item # 1491), rather than just hardwiring straight to the decoder. Pin 1 (white) and Pin 2 (Black) were used for our Golden White Surface Mount LED (Item 1311). We simply glued the LED to the light bar after making our solder connections and adding a 1/6watt 1K resister. Pins 3 & 4 (both black) were then used for the motor leads.
Before we close up the locomotive, make sure to secure the wires in order to avoid any pinched wires or flywheel contact. Next, reassemble the locomotive in the reverse process noted earlier on during disassembly. With the locomotive reassembled, we can now move onto the decoder and speaker installation in the tender.
Before we close up the locomotive, make sure to secure the wires in order to avoid any pinched wires or flywheel contact. Next, reassemble the locomotive in the reverse process noted earlier on during disassembly. With the locomotive reassembled, we can now move onto the decoder and speaker installation in the tender.
In order to install the decoder and speaker, we must first remove the tender shell. Do this by holding onto the chassis and pull the shell up and off. With the tender shell removed, we need to then remove the weight. The weight is easily removed by pulling back the two securing tabs and lifting it out.
In order to install the decoder and speaker, we must first remove the tender shell. Do this by holding onto the chassis and pull the shell up and off. With the tender shell removed, we need to then remove the weight. The weight is easily removed by pulling back the two securing tabs and lifting it out.
In order to maximize volume and a good balance of highs and lows, we went with a 15x25mm oval speaker for our install mounted in the middle of the tender chassis. Before we started drilling, we first marked our outer edges of the speaker for reference. Our marks can be seen in the above picture.
In order to maximize volume and a good balance of highs and lows, we went with a 15x25mm oval speaker for our install mounted in the middle of the tender chassis. Before we started drilling, we first marked our outer edges of the speaker for reference. Our marks can be seen in the above picture.
Before we drill any of our holes, we first want to remove the plastic tray that secures the pick-up bridges. This is done by pushing the four walls away from the center of the chassis and popping the tray up and out.
Before we drill any of our holes, we first want to remove the plastic tray that secures the pick-up bridges. This is done by pushing the four walls away from the center of the chassis and popping the tray up and out.
With the tray removed, we can now drill our holes through it. Its best to drill about 40-50 #68 holes with in the markings from earlier.
With the tray removed, we can now drill our holes through it. Its best to drill about 40-50 #68 holes with in the markings from earlier.
With the tray drilled, we can now drill the holes through the bottom of the tender chassis. Prior to drilling, its best to snap out the tender truck assembly and spring to avoid any possible damage. Now drill about 20 #68 holes through the chassis. Note that we don't need as many holes here due to the openings for the truck assembly. Any more holes than 20 of this size may compromise the structure of this chassis. Therefore its best not to go too crazy withtt he amount of holes drilled.
With the tray drilled, we can now drill the holes through the bottom of the tender chassis. Prior to drilling, its best to snap out the tender truck assembly and spring to avoid any possible damage. Now drill about 20 #68 holes through the chassis. Note that we don't need as many holes here due to the openings for the truck assembly. Any more holes than 20 of this size may compromise the structure of this chassis. Therefore its best not to go too crazy withtt he amount of holes drilled.
With all our holes drilled we can now attach our pickup leads to the pick-up bridge. To prevent any possible melting of the surrounding plastic, its a good idea to remove the pick-up bridges and do the soldering outside of the tender. In our install, we used our 2 Pin Micro Connector with red and black leads (Item # 1520) for easy seperation of the tender chassis and shell. Once the soldering is complete, reinstall the pick-up bridges and mark the plastic tray for where the wires will come up. Using a hobby knife, notch out two areas for the wire leads to come through. Next, reinstall the plastic tray into the tender chassis.
With all our holes drilled we can now attach our pickup leads to the pick-up bridge. To prevent any possible melting of the surrounding plastic, its a good idea to remove the pick-up bridges and do the soldering outside of the tender. In our install, we used our 2 Pin Micro Connector with red and black leads (Item # 1520) for easy seperation of the tender chassis and shell. Once the soldering is complete, reinstall the pick-up bridges and mark the plastic tray for where the wires will come up. Using a hobby knife, notch out two areas for the wire leads to come through. Next, reinstall the plastic tray into the tender chassis.
Next, we soldered our 2 Pin Micro Connector with purple wires (Item # 1522) to the 15x25mm speaker. Following that, we then positioned our speaker on the chassis and secured and sealed it with some hot glue.
Next, we soldered our 2 Pin Micro Connector with purple wires (Item # 1522) to the 15x25mm speaker. Following that, we then positioned our speaker on the chassis and secured and sealed it with some hot glue.
With the chassis work complete, we then turned our attention to the decoder and lighting. We next wired in and adhered our Golden White Surface Mount LED (Item 1311) for the reverse light. This is just like we did earlier for our front headlight. Rememeber to also add in a 1/6watt 1K resister inline with the LED.
With the chassis work complete, we then turned our attention to the decoder and lighting. We next wired in and adhered our Golden White Surface Mount LED (Item 1311) for the reverse light. This is just like we did earlier for our front headlight. Rememeber to also add in a 1/6watt 1K resister inline with the LED.
Following the reverse light we then attached the other halves of our connectors to our deocder harness'. This included the 2 Pin Micro Connector with red and black wires for our pick-ups, the 2 Pin Micro Connector with purple wires for the speaker, as well as the 4 Pin Micro Connector for the tender to locomotive connection. For the 4 Pin Micro Connector, we had Pin 1 (white) go to the white lead from the decoder and Pin 2 (black) go to the blue lead from the decoder. Pin 3 (black) and Pin 4 (black) went to orange and gray leads from the decoder respectfully.
Following the reverse light we then attached the other halves of our connectors to our deocder harness'. This included the 2 Pin Micro Connector with red and black wires for our pick-ups, the 2 Pin Micro Connector with purple wires for the speaker, as well as the 4 Pin Micro Connector for the tender to locomotive connection. For the 4 Pin Micro Connector, we had Pin 1 (white) go to the white lead from the decoder and Pin 2 (black) go to the blue lead from the decoder. Pin 3 (black) and Pin 4 (black) went to orange and gray leads from the decoder respectfully.
Next, we can now begin the placement of the WOWSound Decoder and KA2. Before placement, we need to trim the two cylindrical posts inside the tender shell to about 1/4" in length. This is needed to accommodate the speaker we installed earlier.
Next, we can now begin the placement of the WOWSound Decoder and KA2. Before placement, we need to trim the two cylindrical posts inside the tender shell to about 1/4" in length. This is needed to accommodate the speaker we installed earlier.
With the posts trimmed and all wiring complete, we can now finally place and secure the decoder and KA2 in the tender chassis. In our install, some double sided tape worked great. Once the decoder and KA2 are secured, we can then put the tender shell back on its chassis. Make sure to connect both the speaker and pick-up leads and route the wiring carefully to avoid any pinched wires. You have now installed a TCS WOW101-Steam-KA decoder into your N-Scale Kato FEF 4-8-4.
With the posts trimmed and all wiring complete, we can now finally place and secure the decoder and KA2 in the tender chassis. In our install, some double sided tape worked great. Once the decoder and KA2 are secured, we can then put the tender shell back on its chassis. Make sure to connect both the speaker and pick-up leads and route the wiring carefully to avoid any pinched wires. You have now installed a TCS WOW101-Steam-KA decoder into your N-Scale Kato FEF 4-8-4.

Important Soldering Tip

Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. Over time, the acidic properties of liquid or paste flux will begin eating away at the fiberglass PCB and will damage it. Use only Rosin-core solder or no-clean flux approved for electronics use.

TCS recommends the use of Kester "44" Sn63 Pb37, .015" diameter Rosin-core solder. Kester part number 24-6337-0007.

You can order this solder from the following retailers:
Digikey - PN:KE1110-ND
Techni-Tool - PN:488SO6775

Other solder tips

When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more than a 1/32 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire than half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire