Kato ACS-64

Scale:
N Scale


This installation uses the following decoder:


This installation is for a N-Scale Kato ACS-64 using a TCS K7D4. This install was performed by TCS.

N-Scale Kato ACS-64 prior to TCS K7D4 decoder installation.
N-Scale Kato ACS-64 prior to TCS K7D4 decoder installation.
To start off this install, we must first remove the shell from the chassis. There are four tabs (two on each side of the chassis that secure the shell.To remove the shell, carefully pull the shell away from the chassis at the four tab locations noted with red rectangles in the above image. The tabs are located around the locomtoives cab doors.Once the shell is lifted slightly above these tab points, the shell will easily come off.
To start off this install, we must first remove the shell from the chassis. There are four tabs (two on each side of the chassis that secure the shell.To remove the shell, carefully pull the shell away from the chassis at the four tab locations noted with red rectangles in the above image. The tabs are located around the locomtoives cab doors.Once the shell is lifted slightly above these tab points, the shell will easily come off.
With the shell off, we can now remove the factory light board. First, we need to remove the black securing clip over the motor tabs.Once removed, carefully lift the factory light board up slighting over the securing tabs highlighted in the red rectangle.With the factory light board slightly lifted up, slide it towards the front (left in image above) to remove it from underneath the pickup contacts highlighted with yellow squares.
With the shell off, we can now remove the factory light board. First, we need to remove the black securing clip over the motor tabs.Once removed, carefully lift the factory light board up slighting over the securing tabs highlighted in the red rectangle.With the factory light board slightly lifted up, slide it towards the front (left in image above) to remove it from underneath the pickup contacts highlighted with yellow squares.
The above image shows the locomotive with its factory light board removed.Due to the incredibly tight spacing of the motor tabs between the frame it is necessary to take protective measures to avoid shorting the motor to the frame. In the steps below we apply Kapton tape to the frame to prevent shorting; you could also apply tape to the outside of the motor tabs for the same result (or you could tape the frame and the tabs for double protection!).Next, remove the grey plastic "ladder" holding the frame together. It has four dimples which insert into the frame and can be easily removed by slightly spreading it.
The above image shows the locomotive with its factory light board removed.Due to the incredibly tight spacing of the motor tabs between the frame it is necessary to take protective measures to avoid shorting the motor to the frame. In the steps below we apply Kapton tape to the frame to prevent shorting; you could also apply tape to the outside of the motor tabs for the same result (or you could tape the frame and the tabs for double protection!).Next, remove the grey plastic "ladder" holding the frame together. It has four dimples which insert into the frame and can be easily removed by slightly spreading it.
With the plastic frame removed use a 2.5mm screwdriver to carefully spread the two sides of the frame. This will give you the room to install Kapton tape over the frame to protect the motor tabs.
With the plastic frame removed use a 2.5mm screwdriver to carefully spread the two sides of the frame. This will give you the room to install Kapton tape over the frame to protect the motor tabs.
Kapton tape MUST be applied to the frame as seen in the image below to be sure that the motor won't short to the frame. Repeat the taping process for both sides of the motor. Once the motor is safely isolated we can remove the screwdriver, squeeze the frame back together, and replace the plastic frame.
Kapton tape MUST be applied to the frame as seen in the image below to be sure that the motor won't short to the frame. Repeat the taping process for both sides of the motor. Once the motor is safely isolated we can remove the screwdriver, squeeze the frame back together, and replace the plastic frame.
With the frame re-assembled, we can now install the TCS K7D4 decoder. This is easily done in the reverse order of how the original DC board was removed. With the decoder installed, put the securing clip over the motor tabs to lock the decoder in place; afterwards, the shell can be placed back onto the model to complete the installation.
With the frame re-assembled, we can now install the TCS K7D4 decoder. This is easily done in the reverse order of how the original DC board was removed. With the decoder installed, put the securing clip over the motor tabs to lock the decoder in place; afterwards, the shell can be placed back onto the model to complete the installation.

Important Soldering Tip

Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. Over time, the acidic properties of liquid or paste flux will begin eating away at the fiberglass PCB and will damage it. Use only Rosin-core solder or no-clean flux approved for electronics use.

TCS recommends the use of Kester "44" Sn63 Pb37, .015" diameter Rosin-core solder. Kester part number 24-6337-0007.

You can order this solder from the following retailers:
Digikey - PN:KE1110-ND
Techni-Tool - PN:488SO6775

Other solder tips

When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more than a 1/32 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire than half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire