Atlas RS11 (1986 - 2005 Version)

Scale:
N Scale


This installation uses the following decoder:




This Installation is for Atlas RS11 with Kato Frame (1986-2005) locomotive and it uses TCS CN-GP Decoder. It was submitted by Christian Ellens.

Picture of the locomotive with its shell on prior to the installation.
Picture of the locomotive with its shell on prior to the installation.
Disassemble the locomotive by first removing the cab, gently prying it away from the frame. You'll now see that the hood is held in place by small metal protrusions on each side where the cab was. Pry the hood away from these and it should slip off easily. Then the walkway can be removed. The existing light boards can be removed and discarded.
Disassemble the locomotive by first removing the cab, gently prying it away from the frame. You'll now see that the hood is held in place by small metal protrusions on each side where the cab was. Pry the hood away from these and it should slip off easily. Then the walkway can be removed. The existing light boards can be removed and discarded.
Remove the two screws that hold the two halves of the locomotive together. Temporarily insert the front end of a CN-GP decoder (the one with the wires attached) in place in order to measure the lengths of the motor (grey and orange) wires. The grey wire goes to the bottom of the motor. Cut the wires to length and solder them to the metal tabs that stick out on each side of the motor. Avoid soldering directly to the "buttons" on the top and bottom of the motor, as you risk melting and damaging the motor. After soldering the connections, wrap insulating tape around the motor to prevent any of the metal parts from touching the frame. Finally, replace the motor in the frame and re-assemble the two halves of the frame. Insert the back half of the decoder and measure the lengths of the yellow, blue, and black wires. Solder them to the appropriate tabs on the decoder.
Remove the two screws that hold the two halves of the locomotive together. Temporarily insert the front end of a CN-GP decoder (the one with the wires attached) in place in order to measure the lengths of the motor (grey and orange) wires. The grey wire goes to the bottom of the motor. Cut the wires to length and solder them to the metal tabs that stick out on each side of the motor. Avoid soldering directly to the "buttons" on the top and bottom of the motor, as you risk melting and damaging the motor. After soldering the connections, wrap insulating tape around the motor to prevent any of the metal parts from touching the frame. Finally, replace the motor in the frame and re-assemble the two halves of the frame. Insert the back half of the decoder and measure the lengths of the yellow, blue, and black wires. Solder them to the appropriate tabs on the decoder.
In order to replace the hood, the front decoder will need to be inserted as far as it can go. However, note that there is a component on the bottom of the circuit board which will then be very close to the metal frame (see yellow arrow on photo). It is imperitive that this component NOT touch the frame, so place a piece of insulating tape on the frame at this point. It might even be necessary to file away a little of the frame. Test the installation on your programming track, and if all goes well, replace the walkways, the hood, and the cab.
In order to replace the hood, the front decoder will need to be inserted as far as it can go. However, note that there is a component on the bottom of the circuit board which will then be very close to the metal frame (see yellow arrow on photo). It is imperitive that this component NOT touch the frame, so place a piece of insulating tape on the frame at this point. It might even be necessary to file away a little of the frame. Test the installation on your programming track, and if all goes well, replace the walkways, the hood, and the cab.

Important Soldering Tip

Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. Over time, the acidic properties of liquid or paste flux will begin eating away at the fiberglass PCB and will damage it. Use only Rosin-core solder or no-clean flux approved for electronics use.

TCS recommends the use of Kester "44" Sn63 Pb37, .015" diameter Rosin-core solder. Kester part number 24-6337-0007.

You can order this solder from the following retailers:
Digikey - PN:KE1110-ND
Techni-Tool - PN:488SO6775

Other solder tips

When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more than a 1/32 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire than half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire