Atlas ALCO C424-5

Scale:
HO Scale


WOWKit used in this installation

WDK-ATL-1

Which includes the following items:

Decoder
Motherboard
Speaker Kit


Installation

This installation is for a HO-Scale Atlas C424-5 Phase 1 using a TCS WOW121-Diesel Decoder, AK-MB1 Motherboard with built in Keep Alive®, and ATL-SH1 WOWSpeaker kit.

HO-Scale Atlas GP39-2 Phase 1 prior to WOW121-Diesel Decoder, AK-MB1, and UNIV-SH1-C installation.
HO-Scale Atlas GP39-2 Phase 1 prior to WOW121-Diesel Decoder, AK-MB1, and UNIV-SH1-C installation.
To start off this install, we must first remove the front and rear couplers and their housings.
To start off this install, we must first remove the front and rear couplers and their housings.
Next, compress the sides of the shell at the front and rear (above the tabs highlighted above in red), and gently shake the locomotive to slip the shell off of the frame.
Next, compress the sides of the shell at the front and rear (above the tabs highlighted above in red), and gently shake the locomotive to slip the shell off of the frame.
With the shell off, we can now remove the factory light board. First remove any wire clips and disconnect the wires from the board.

Once the wires are loose, the factory light board can easily be unclipped from the motor mount.
With the shell off, we can now remove the factory light board. First remove any wire clips and disconnect the wires from the board. Once the wires are loose, the factory light board can easily be unclipped from the motor mount.
Now with the factory light board removed, we can now clip in the AK-MB1.

With the AK-MB1 clipped onto the motor we can remove the rear weight to install the speaker and housing.
Now with the factory light board removed, we can now clip in the AK-MB1. With the AK-MB1 clipped onto the motor we can remove the rear weight to install the speaker and housing.
Uninstall the rear weight by removing the 2x screws highlighted above in red.
Uninstall the rear weight by removing the 2x screws highlighted above in red.
With the AK-MB1 mounted, we can now solder some wire leads to our speaker and place our speaker inside the ATL-SH1 speaker housing.

To mount the ATL-SH1 speaker in this locomotive you can either: trim the original weight screws to approximately 3/4 of their original length and use them to install the housing, glue the housing to the frame, source some shorter screws and use them. If you reuse the original screws without cutting them down they will extend below the frame an interfere with the trucks.

For this installation we had shorter screws on hand so we simply screwed the speaker enclosure to the frame and then glued the speaker into the housing.

NOTE: You must be very careful to avoid getting glue on the speaker cone. Glue on the speaker will ultimately cause it to produce no sound and fail.
With the AK-MB1 mounted, we can now solder some wire leads to our speaker and place our speaker inside the ATL-SH1 speaker housing. To mount the ATL-SH1 speaker in this locomotive you can either: trim the original weight screws to approximately 3/4 of their original length and use them to install the housing, glue the housing to the frame, source some shorter screws and use them. If you reuse the original screws without cutting them down they will extend below the frame an interfere with the trucks. For this installation we had shorter screws on hand so we simply screwed the speaker enclosure to the frame and then glued the speaker into the housing. NOTE: You must be very careful to avoid getting glue on the speaker cone. Glue on the speaker will ultimately cause it to produce no sound and fail.
This engine comes supplied with LED's. The AK-MB1 is configured for LED use and has built in current limit resistors in series with the light outputs for LED use so we added no additional resistors.

Originally, the rear light was mounted on the rear weight and held next to the light tube, to compensate for the lost rear weight we build up ~1/4" hot glue on the outside of the speaker housing and mount the LED on top. The image below should illustrate the hot glue LED mounting.
This engine comes supplied with LED's. The AK-MB1 is configured for LED use and has built in current limit resistors in series with the light outputs for LED use so we added no additional resistors. Originally, the rear light was mounted on the rear weight and held next to the light tube, to compensate for the lost rear weight we build up ~1/4" hot glue on the outside of the speaker housing and mount the LED on top. The image below should illustrate the hot glue LED mounting.
Lastly, solder your speaker wires to the AK-MB1 and plug in your WOW121-Diesel decoder.
Lastly, solder your speaker wires to the AK-MB1 and plug in your WOW121-Diesel decoder.
With all three main components mounted, we can now close up the locomotive and reinstall the coupler assemblies.

Be sure to be mindful of wire routing and reassembly of the shell as to not damage or foul the installation.
With all three main components mounted, we can now close up the locomotive and reinstall the coupler assemblies. Be sure to be mindful of wire routing and reassembly of the shell as to not damage or foul the installation.

Important Soldering Tip

Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. Over time, the acidic properties of liquid or paste flux will begin eating away at the fiberglass PCB and will damage it. Use only Rosin-core solder or no-clean flux approved for electronics use.

TCS recommends the use of Kester "44" Sn63 Pb37, .015" diameter Rosin-core solder. Kester part number 24-6337-0007.

You can order this solder from the following retailers:
Digikey - PN:KE1110-ND
Techni-Tool - PN:488SO6775

Other solder tips

When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more than a 1/32 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire than half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire