Rivarossi 2-6-6-6 Allegheny

Scale:
HO Scale


WOWKit used in this installation

WSK-BAC-2

Which includes the following items:

Decoder
Motherboard

B-MB2

Speaker Kit


Installation

This installation documentation is for a HO-Scale Rivarossi 2-6-6-6 Allegheny. This installation uses a TCS WOW121 Steam Decoder, B-MB2 with Keep Alive® and 28mm High Bass WOWSpeaker. A TCS 7-Pin JST connector was also used for this installation to connect the engine and tender. The High Bass 28mm speaker was used in place of the standard 28mm speaker. The forward headlight was also replaced using a single 3mm Golden-White LED.

HO-Scale Rivarossi 2-6-6-6 Allegheny shown prior to installation.
HO-Scale Rivarossi 2-6-6-6 Allegheny shown prior to installation.
To remove the locomotive shell, first remove the cap for the access to the front screw but gently removing the plastic cover outlined in red.
To remove the locomotive shell, first remove the cap for the access to the front screw but gently removing the plastic cover outlined in red.
With this cap off, remove the screw found underneath.
With this cap off, remove the screw found underneath.
After this screw is removed, the shell top half of the boiler lifts off. Next, remove the screw highlighted above in red above and remove the original lighting board and components with it. Identify the track, motor and lighting wire leads and trim and tin them to length in preparation for the harness.
After this screw is removed, the shell top half of the boiler lifts off. Next, remove the screw highlighted above in red above and remove the original lighting board and components with it. Identify the track, motor and lighting wire leads and trim and tin them to length in preparation for the harness.
In this installation, we are changing the original bulb headlight with a Golden-white LED TCS Sku #1258. To gain access to this, first loosen the front pilot truck screw to be able to swing it out of the way. You can now have access to the front of the headlight carriage bottom. *NOTE: This assembly is shown removed from the chassis. It is not necessary nor recommended to do so. This is done here solely to show the clarity of the process.*
In this installation, we are changing the original bulb headlight with a Golden-white LED TCS Sku #1258. To gain access to this, first loosen the front pilot truck screw to be able to swing it out of the way. You can now have access to the front of the headlight carriage bottom. *NOTE: This assembly is shown removed from the chassis. It is not necessary nor recommended to do so. This is done here solely to show the clarity of the process.*
Carefully pry the headlight assembly up and off to reach the original bulb. We snipped this bulb out to pull the wire leads out from the bottom.
Carefully pry the headlight assembly up and off to reach the original bulb. We snipped this bulb out to pull the wire leads out from the bottom.
By carefully removing the bottom portion of the headlight carriage, you will see the hole available to insert the new LED. Splice the wire leads from this new LED into the existing leads back onto the top of the locomotive,
By carefully removing the bottom portion of the headlight carriage, you will see the hole available to insert the new LED. Splice the wire leads from this new LED into the existing leads back onto the top of the locomotive,
To prepare space for the new harness, the let side seat must be removed as shown above in red.
To prepare space for the new harness, the let side seat must be removed as shown above in red.
With this area prepared, drill a small hole to feed the harness from the tender side up through into the locomotive.
With this area prepared, drill a small hole to feed the harness from the tender side up through into the locomotive.
In this installation, we added a couple of lengths of TCS SKU #1559 to keep the harness in place and at a proper length.
In this installation, we added a couple of lengths of TCS SKU #1559 to keep the harness in place and at a proper length.
Splice into the original wire leads out of the locomotive for the track pickups, motor and headlight into the new wiring hardness feeding out to the tender. The engine is now complete and can be reassembled by reversing the disassembly steps above.
Splice into the original wire leads out of the locomotive for the track pickups, motor and headlight into the new wiring hardness feeding out to the tender. The engine is now complete and can be reassembled by reversing the disassembly steps above.
To open the tender, remove the front drawbar screw highlighted above in red.
To open the tender, remove the front drawbar screw highlighted above in red.
To open the tender, remove the rear coupler screw highlighted above in red then lift upward on the shell. Remove the original componentry if any was installed.
To open the tender, remove the rear coupler screw highlighted above in red then lift upward on the shell. Remove the original componentry if any was installed.
With the lighting board removed, light the weight stack out of the tender.
With the lighting board removed, light the weight stack out of the tender.
Mark a hole approximately 3/4" in diameter in the location shown above. .
Mark a hole approximately 3/4" in diameter in the location shown above. .
Individually drill out each weight layer and set them aside.
Individually drill out each weight layer and set them aside.
Inside the tender shell are two ribs that must be removed as shown in red in the above photo.
Inside the tender shell are two ribs that must be removed as shown in red in the above photo.
Drill a series of small holes in the tender floor, to be located underneath the weight hole to allow the sound to properly escape.
Drill a series of small holes in the tender floor, to be located underneath the weight hole to allow the sound to properly escape.
Trim out the front of the tender as necessary to create a space to mount the tender side of the JST connector. Using a small dab of hot melt glue, you can secure this board in place.
Trim out the front of the tender as necessary to create a space to mount the tender side of the JST connector. Using a small dab of hot melt glue, you can secure this board in place.
Using TCS Kapton tape SKU #1256, wrap the Keep Alive® capacitors to insulate them from the weights. Also apply double-sided foam tape.
Using TCS Kapton tape SKU #1256, wrap the Keep Alive® capacitors to insulate them from the weights. Also apply double-sided foam tape.
Using the foam double-sided tape, mount the B-MB2 to the top and back edge of the weights as shown here with the track pickups soldered in place.
Using the foam double-sided tape, mount the B-MB2 to the top and back edge of the weights as shown here with the track pickups soldered in place.
Solder the new wire leads from the locomotive connector end to the motherboard as shown in accordance with the wiring diagram. Be mindful to ensure no wires get crossed!
Solder the new wire leads from the locomotive connector end to the motherboard as shown in accordance with the wiring diagram. Be mindful to ensure no wires get crossed!
Remove the protective strip on the adhesive around the foam face of the 28mm WOWSound HI Bass speaker and firmly set it in place as shown on the top of the weights, centering it on the porthole below. Solder these wire leads to the B-MB2 motherboard.
Remove the protective strip on the adhesive around the foam face of the 28mm WOWSound HI Bass speaker and firmly set it in place as shown on the top of the weights, centering it on the porthole below. Solder these wire leads to the B-MB2 motherboard.
You can now plug in your WOW121-Steam decoder. Now you can close up the locomotive and tender. Be sure to be mindful of wire routing and reassembly of the shell as to not crush wires or damage or foul the installation. Your Rivarossi 2-6-6-6 Allegheny is now WOWSound equipped and ready to roll!
You can now plug in your WOW121-Steam decoder. Now you can close up the locomotive and tender. Be sure to be mindful of wire routing and reassembly of the shell as to not crush wires or damage or foul the installation. Your Rivarossi 2-6-6-6 Allegheny is now WOWSound equipped and ready to roll!

Important Soldering Tip

Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. Over time, the acidic properties of liquid or paste flux will begin eating away at the fiberglass PCB and will damage it. Use only Rosin-core solder or no-clean flux approved for electronics use.

TCS recommends the use of Kester "44" Sn63 Pb37, .015" diameter Rosin-core solder. Kester part number 24-6337-0007.

You can order this solder from the following retailers:
Digikey - PN:KE1110-ND
Techni-Tool - PN:488SO6775

Other solder tips

When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more than a 1/32 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire than half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire