Bachmann Consolidation 2-8-0 Version 2

Scale:
HO Scale


WOWKit used in this installation

WSK-BAC-2

Which includes the following items:

Decoder
Motherboard

B-MB2

Speaker Kit


This installation documentation is for the Bachmann Consolidation 2-8-0. This particular model features a new style of tender unlike previous runs of the Consolidation. This installation uses the WSK-BAC-2 WOWkit which includes the B-MB2, UNIV-SH2-C speaker kit, and WOW121-Steam decoder. Also used in this installation is the 6-Pin Mini Connector. This installation was performed by TCS.

First, separate the tender and remove the screw identified above with the red circle from the underside of the tender.
First, separate the tender and remove the screw identified above with the red circle from the underside of the tender.
With the tender screw removed, gently press on the rear of the tender to release the two clips. The tender shell will lift straight off. You can see here the inside of the tender which has been gutted of all factory components. We have also removed the original Bachmann connectors from the front of the tender, as we will be installing a 6-Pin Mini Connector
With the tender screw removed, gently press on the rear of the tender to release the two clips. The tender shell will lift straight off. You can see here the inside of the tender which has been gutted of all factory components. We have also removed the original Bachmann connectors from the front of the tender, as we will be installing a 6-Pin Mini Connector
Next we will install the UNIV-SH2-C speaker and enclosure and the 6-pin mini connector. Note that the best way to install the enclosure is to put the wires off to one side of the tender or the other. The reason for this is so that we can feed the speaker wires through one of the holes in the motherboard. This makes for a neat and clean installation!
Next we will install the UNIV-SH2-C speaker and enclosure and the 6-pin mini connector. Note that the best way to install the enclosure is to put the wires off to one side of the tender or the other. The reason for this is so that we can feed the speaker wires through one of the holes in the motherboard. This makes for a neat and clean installation!
Onto the underside of the motherboard, place a small square of double-sided tape. We recommend using low-profile tape such as VHB. Additionally, the capacitors MUST be wrapped in Kapton tape or other insulative wrapping. Not insulating the capacitors will cause them to ground out and/or short against the weights!
Onto the underside of the motherboard, place a small square of double-sided tape. We recommend using low-profile tape such as VHB. Additionally, the capacitors MUST be wrapped in Kapton tape or other insulative wrapping. Not insulating the capacitors will cause them to ground out and/or short against the weights!
Stick the motherboard onto the top of the speaker enclosure using the VHB. Be sure to feed the speaker wires through the screw hole on the side of the motherboard! Here we have also soldered the motor and lighting wires to the motherboard.
Stick the motherboard onto the top of the speaker enclosure using the VHB. Be sure to feed the speaker wires through the screw hole on the side of the motherboard! Here we have also soldered the motor and lighting wires to the motherboard.
Solder your remaining wires and install the WOW121-Steam decoder.
Solder your remaining wires and install the WOW121-Steam decoder.
Due to the height of the installation, it is advised to modify the shell of the tender. With the shell still removed, gently press on this tab to remove the coal load. This tab may be clipped off after removing the coal load.
Due to the height of the installation, it is advised to modify the shell of the tender. With the shell still removed, gently press on this tab to remove the coal load. This tab may be clipped off after removing the coal load.
Here is the coal load removed from the shell.
Here is the coal load removed from the shell.
Use a Dremel tool or similar to remove the plastic from under the coal load immediately behind the screw post. Be sure NOT to remove the post, as you will no longer be able to screw down the tender shell! Do not remove any plastic beyond the rear of the coal load. Once this step is completed, you may replace the coal load and set the tender shell aside. We did not use any glue to re-attach the load, as it was not necessary.
Use a Dremel tool or similar to remove the plastic from under the coal load immediately behind the screw post. Be sure NOT to remove the post, as you will no longer be able to screw down the tender shell! Do not remove any plastic beyond the rear of the coal load. Once this step is completed, you may replace the coal load and set the tender shell aside. We did not use any glue to re-attach the load, as it was not necessary.
Since we are installing a 6-Pin Mini Connector, the male end of the connector will need to be wired into the locomotive as well. To begin that process, start by removing the screw which holds the drawbar and the cab.
Since we are installing a 6-Pin Mini Connector, the male end of the connector will need to be wired into the locomotive as well. To begin that process, start by removing the screw which holds the drawbar and the cab.
On the front of the boiler, release the ladder on either side by gently pulling the ladder away from the boiler at the top.
On the front of the boiler, release the ladder on either side by gently pulling the ladder away from the boiler at the top.
Next, on the right side of the locomotive (Engineer's Side), release this link by pulling straight outward.
Next, on the right side of the locomotive (Engineer's Side), release this link by pulling straight outward.
Next, remove the frame screws and front wheel assembly so the drive assembly comes loose from the boiler assembly. DO NOT remove the screws which hold the drivers and gearing in place!
Next, remove the frame screws and front wheel assembly so the drive assembly comes loose from the boiler assembly. DO NOT remove the screws which hold the drivers and gearing in place!
To release the shell, lift from the rear and slide the boiler slightly forward to remove it from the frame. Here is the frame shown with the shell removed. With the screws moved from the bottom, the boiler interior will also lift straight up. Splice the track power wires into the 2-pin connector from Bachmann, or follow them back to their contacts and solder directly to the frame.
To release the shell, lift from the rear and slide the boiler slightly forward to remove it from the frame. Here is the frame shown with the shell removed. With the screws moved from the bottom, the boiler interior will also lift straight up. Splice the track power wires into the 2-pin connector from Bachmann, or follow them back to their contacts and solder directly to the frame.
Once you have separated the boiler assembly from the drive assembly, remove these three screws and the two half of this part will be released from each other. Carefully open them up to gain access to the motor and forward headlight.
Once you have separated the boiler assembly from the drive assembly, remove these three screws and the two half of this part will be released from each other. Carefully open them up to gain access to the motor and forward headlight.
The Male end of the 6-pin connector may be spliced into the existing wires here, or wired directly to the components. A total of 4 wires will be used here - 2 for the motor and 2 for the LED. Ensure that these wires match up with the wiring you used for the tender! It is best to route the wires as shown here.
The Male end of the 6-pin connector may be spliced into the existing wires here, or wired directly to the components. A total of 4 wires will be used here - 2 for the motor and 2 for the LED. Ensure that these wires match up with the wiring you used for the tender! It is best to route the wires as shown here.
Replace the front headlight with a LED. Using hot glue, cover the LED and then insert it into the rear of the light tube. It is not necessary to remove the light tube, but it is shown here for demonstration. Once the new LED is spliced into place, reverse your steps to reassemble the locomotive. Close up the locomotive and tender reinstall the shell assemblies. Be mindful of wire routing and reassembly as to not crush any wires or foul the installation. Your Bachmann 2-8-0 Consolidation is now WOWSound equipped and ready to roll!
Replace the front headlight with a LED. Using hot glue, cover the LED and then insert it into the rear of the light tube. It is not necessary to remove the light tube, but it is shown here for demonstration. Once the new LED is spliced into place, reverse your steps to reassemble the locomotive. Close up the locomotive and tender reinstall the shell assemblies. Be mindful of wire routing and reassembly as to not crush any wires or foul the installation. Your Bachmann 2-8-0 Consolidation is now WOWSound equipped and ready to roll!

Important Soldering Tip

Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. Over time, the acidic properties of liquid or paste flux will begin eating away at the fiberglass PCB and will damage it. Use only Rosin-core solder or no-clean flux approved for electronics use.

TCS recommends the use of Kester "44" Sn63 Pb37, .015" diameter Rosin-core solder. Kester part number 24-6337-0007.

You can order this solder from the following retailers:
Digikey - PN:KE1110-ND
Techni-Tool - PN:488SO6775

Other solder tips

When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more than a 1/32 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire than half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire