Model Power Sharknose

Scale:
HO Scale


This installation uses the following decoder:

T1



This installation of TCS T1 Decoder is for HO Scale Model Power Sharknose and was performed by Jean Lacroix, Canada.

This model was custom painted for my private railroad company. The model was manufactured by Roco in Austria. It is generally a very good working locomotive.
This model was custom painted for my private railroad company. The model was manufactured by Roco in Austria. It is generally a very good working locomotive.
Before you can remove the body, you will have to remove the front coupler of the locomotive. Just remove both screws on both side of the coupler box. The next step involves the removal of the body. In order to do this, you simply have to pull outwards both side of the body. The body should come off easily.
Before you can remove the body, you will have to remove the front coupler of the locomotive. Just remove both screws on both side of the coupler box. The next step involves the removal of the body. In order to do this, you simply have to pull outwards both side of the body. The body should come off easily.
You will then have to disconnect all the wires that are hooked on the two motor poles through a small angled clip. In the next picture, you can see that part. Keep those clips because they will be needed. Cut the bare metal wire and put it aside, it will be used shortly.
You will then have to disconnect all the wires that are hooked on the two motor poles through a small angled clip. In the next picture, you can see that part. Keep those clips because they will be needed. Cut the bare metal wire and put it aside, it will be used shortly.
It is on those two parts that you will solder the grey and orange wires from the harness, one on each side of the motor. Then, solder the black wire of the harness to the black wires that come from both trucks. The red wire can be attached to the bare metal wire and then slide in the place it was before on the side of the motor, hold by the plastic clip that keeps the motor in its place, or soldered to a brass washer that is secured by a screw on the frame of the locomotive.
It is on those two parts that you will solder the grey and orange wires from the harness, one on each side of the motor. Then, solder the black wire of the harness to the black wires that come from both trucks. The red wire can be attached to the bare metal wire and then slide in the place it was before on the side of the motor, hold by the plastic clip that keeps the motor in its place, or soldered to a brass washer that is secured by a screw on the frame of the locomotive.
The blue and the white wires are connected to the front headlight LED as per instructions that come with the T1. The LED was then glued to the clear lens located inside the nose of the locomotive. The yellow was not used for the backup light. Cut back the violet and the green and put liquid tape or electrical tape at their ends. Make sure you use shrink tubing over each connection between wires. The decoder can then simply installed just in front of the big weight that sits on top of the motor or on top of the front truck and held in place with double-sided tape. You are now ready to reinstall the body doing the opposite of what you have done earlier.
The blue and the white wires are connected to the front headlight LED as per instructions that come with the T1. The LED was then glued to the clear lens located inside the nose of the locomotive. The yellow was not used for the backup light. Cut back the violet and the green and put liquid tape or electrical tape at their ends. Make sure you use shrink tubing over each connection between wires. The decoder can then simply installed just in front of the big weight that sits on top of the motor or on top of the front truck and held in place with double-sided tape. You are now ready to reinstall the body doing the opposite of what you have done earlier.

Important Soldering Tip

Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. Over time, the acidic properties of liquid or paste flux will begin eating away at the fiberglass PCB and will damage it. Use only Rosin-core solder or no-clean flux approved for electronics use.

TCS recommends the use of Kester "44" Sn63 Pb37, .015" diameter Rosin-core solder. Kester part number 24-6337-0007.

You can order this solder from the following retailers:
Digikey - PN:KE1110-ND
Techni-Tool - PN:488SO6775

Other solder tips

When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more than a 1/32 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire than half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire