Model Power RS11

Scale:
HO Scale


This installation uses the following decoder:

M1



This installation of TCS M1 Decoder is for HO Scale Model Power RS11 and was performed by Robert Lewis of Tilehust, Reading, United Kingdom.

This is a Model Power (Yugoslavia) RS-11. It has been re-painted into CP livery. fitted with an M1 decoder.

To remove the body unscrew the 2 crosshead screws between the bogie and fuel tank (Cab end). There is also a locating lug at the end rear hood that slots into the plastic chassis. Remove all the existing wiring, except for about an inch of each wire from the bogie pick ups, and about an inch of the lower motor brush connection wire, this will save having to remove the motor. I have left the original headlamp bulb in place but is is made redundant by the LED's I have fitted.
To remove the body unscrew the 2 crosshead screws between the bogie and fuel tank (Cab end). There is also a locating lug at the end rear hood that slots into the plastic chassis. Remove all the existing wiring, except for about an inch of each wire from the bogie pick ups, and about an inch of the lower motor brush connection wire, this will save having to remove the motor. I have left the original headlamp bulb in place but is is made redundant by the LED's I have fitted.
I have formed the 2 off 3mm golden-glo LED's as shown in the pictures and used hot melt glue to stick them to the top of the transmission towers. I have then soldered 1k resistors to the anodes. I have formed the decoder wires into a loom using short lengths of rubber sleeving, I have added 1 length of spare wire (white) to run from the front headlight to the rear for the headlight connection. Connect the red decoder wire to the front bogie pick-up wire and the black to the rear bogie pick-up wire, sleeve both joints. Connect the grey wire to the top motor terminal, and the orange to the existing wire from the bottom motor terminal, sleeve this joint. Connect the blue wire and the additional wire to the front LED resistor lead, and the white directly to the LED cathode. Connect the other end of the additional wire to the resistor of the rear headlamp and the white decoder wire to the LED cathode. I have left the decoder "hanging", as its so light it does not need attaching to the bodywork, it also makes removing the body very easy in the future. Ensure that all wiring is clear of the transmission shafts. Test installation. Then re-fit the body and the retaining screws.
I have formed the 2 off 3mm golden-glo LED's as shown in the pictures and used hot melt glue to stick them to the top of the transmission towers. I have then soldered 1k resistors to the anodes. I have formed the decoder wires into a loom using short lengths of rubber sleeving, I have added 1 length of spare wire (white) to run from the front headlight to the rear for the headlight connection. Connect the red decoder wire to the front bogie pick-up wire and the black to the rear bogie pick-up wire, sleeve both joints. Connect the grey wire to the top motor terminal, and the orange to the existing wire from the bottom motor terminal, sleeve this joint. Connect the blue wire and the additional wire to the front LED resistor lead, and the white directly to the LED cathode. Connect the other end of the additional wire to the resistor of the rear headlamp and the white decoder wire to the LED cathode. I have left the decoder "hanging", as its so light it does not need attaching to the bodywork, it also makes removing the body very easy in the future. Ensure that all wiring is clear of the transmission shafts. Test installation. Then re-fit the body and the retaining screws.

Important Soldering Tip

Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. Over time, the acidic properties of liquid or paste flux will begin eating away at the fiberglass PCB and will damage it. Use only Rosin-core solder or no-clean flux approved for electronics use.

TCS recommends the use of Kester "44" Sn63 Pb37, .015" diameter Rosin-core solder. Kester part number 24-6337-0007.

You can order this solder from the following retailers:
Digikey - PN:KE1110-ND
Techni-Tool - PN:488SO6775

Other solder tips

When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more than a 1/32 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire than half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire