Model Power EMD SW1

Scale:
HO Scale


This installation uses the following decoder:

M1



This installation of TCS M1 Decoder is for HO Scale Model Power EMD SW1 and was performed by Robert Lewis of Tilehust, Reading, United Kingdom.

The model is made in Europe (Yugoslavia) by either Model Power or Mehano Technica. I have re-painted this locomotive is CP livery, it maybe prototypically in-correct, but it matches my other CP locomotives.

To remove the body shell a small screwdriver is required to pry away the cab sides, you can then lift the body clear, the body is located at the front end by a peg which protrudes from the bottom of the front into the chassis.
To remove the body shell a small screwdriver is required to pry away the cab sides, you can then lift the body clear, the body is located at the front end by a peg which protrudes from the bottom of the front into the chassis.
The original wiring in this locomotive is not particularly neat so it is best to remove all the existing wiring except the red and blue wires from leading bogie. To remove the motor it is necessary to bend the plastic retaining lugs rearwards, the motor will then lift out, this will enable access to the lower motor terminal.
The original wiring in this locomotive is not particularly neat so it is best to remove all the existing wiring except the red and blue wires from leading bogie. To remove the motor it is necessary to bend the plastic retaining lugs rearwards, the motor will then lift out, this will enable access to the lower motor terminal.
The M1 decoder will sit neatly between the guide rails between the motor and the driven bogie, double sided tape will hold it in place. All wires will have to be trimmed to length as you proceed through the installation. Solder the orange wire to the lower motor terminal, and the grey to the upper terminal. Refit the motor. Join the red decoder wire to the red pick up wire and the black to the blue wire, both joints will require insulating sleeving. Solder the blue decoder wire to the base of the headlight bulb, I have added an additional headlight at the cab end using a spare length of blue wire also soldered to the base of the bulb, and run this back towards the cab. Solder the white decoder wire to the top terminal of the front head light bulb. Join the yellow decoder wire to the cab headlight if fitted, or trim it back and insulate the bare end. Test the installation. If all is ok, ensure the wires are clear of drive shaft and refit the body.
The M1 decoder will sit neatly between the guide rails between the motor and the driven bogie, double sided tape will hold it in place. All wires will have to be trimmed to length as you proceed through the installation. Solder the orange wire to the lower motor terminal, and the grey to the upper terminal. Refit the motor. Join the red decoder wire to the red pick up wire and the black to the blue wire, both joints will require insulating sleeving. Solder the blue decoder wire to the base of the headlight bulb, I have added an additional headlight at the cab end using a spare length of blue wire also soldered to the base of the bulb, and run this back towards the cab. Solder the white decoder wire to the top terminal of the front head light bulb. Join the yellow decoder wire to the cab headlight if fitted, or trim it back and insulate the bare end. Test the installation. If all is ok, ensure the wires are clear of drive shaft and refit the body.

Important Soldering Tip

Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. Over time, the acidic properties of liquid or paste flux will begin eating away at the fiberglass PCB and will damage it. Use only Rosin-core solder or no-clean flux approved for electronics use.

TCS recommends the use of Kester "44" Sn63 Pb37, .015" diameter Rosin-core solder. Kester part number 24-6337-0007.

You can order this solder from the following retailers:
Digikey - PN:KE1110-ND
Techni-Tool - PN:488SO6775

Other solder tips

When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more than a 1/32 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire than half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire