Lima Class 59

Scale:
HO Scale


This installation uses the following decoder:

T1



This installation of TCS T1 Decoder is for HO Scale Lima Class 59 and was performed by Robert Lewis of Tilehust, Reading, United Kingdom.

The Lima Class 59, is the forerunner of the the now popular class 66 built for EWS and other European operators by GM in Canada.

Removing the body is quite difficult. There are 8 retaining lugs, the 3 down each side are body shell mounted, the end ones are chassis mounted. Carefully pry the body away from the chassis, inserting strips of card along the side to keep them apart as you work your way around the body. Finally a slow , but firm pull will release the body, the end retainers may break the clear plastic window moulding below the windscreen, but this is probably better than trying to pry the front & rear end away from the chassis as a split in the plastic would be impossible to repair.
Removing the body is quite difficult. There are 8 retaining lugs, the 3 down each side are body shell mounted, the end ones are chassis mounted. Carefully pry the body away from the chassis, inserting strips of card along the side to keep them apart as you work your way around the body. Finally a slow , but firm pull will release the body, the end retainers may break the clear plastic window moulding below the windscreen, but this is probably better than trying to pry the front & rear end away from the chassis as a split in the plastic would be impossible to repair.
Remove the 2 cross head screws holding the bottom to the motor bogie.
Remove the 2 cross head screws holding the bottom to the motor bogie.
The motor assembly will then lift out of the chassis. Disconnect the 3 wires to the motor terminals and also cut or de-solder the capacitor. Also remove the wire from the bogie pivot solder tag.
The motor assembly will then lift out of the chassis. Disconnect the 3 wires to the motor terminals and also cut or de-solder the capacitor. Also remove the wire from the bogie pivot solder tag.
This locomotive has pick up from the right side on both bogies, and from the left only on the non powered bogie. Join the green wire to the red that comes through the chassis hole, insulate the joint, also splice the red decoder wire into this wire, again insulate this joint. Join the black decoder wire to the solder tag of the bogie retainer. Join the orange decoder wire to the outermost motor terminal and the grey to the other. Test installation. The decoder can be stuck to the top of the ballast weight using double sided tape. Replace body ensuring windscreen mouldings are in the correct place. I have used short lengths of insulation sleeving to keep the wiring neat. All unused wires have been sleeved.
This locomotive has pick up from the right side on both bogies, and from the left only on the non powered bogie. Join the green wire to the red that comes through the chassis hole, insulate the joint, also splice the red decoder wire into this wire, again insulate this joint. Join the black decoder wire to the solder tag of the bogie retainer. Join the orange decoder wire to the outermost motor terminal and the grey to the other. Test installation. The decoder can be stuck to the top of the ballast weight using double sided tape. Replace body ensuring windscreen mouldings are in the correct place. I have used short lengths of insulation sleeving to keep the wiring neat. All unused wires have been sleeved.

Important Soldering Tip

Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. Over time, the acidic properties of liquid or paste flux will begin eating away at the fiberglass PCB and will damage it. Use only Rosin-core solder or no-clean flux approved for electronics use.

TCS recommends the use of Kester "44" Sn63 Pb37, .015" diameter Rosin-core solder. Kester part number 24-6337-0007.

You can order this solder from the following retailers:
Digikey - PN:KE1110-ND
Techni-Tool - PN:488SO6775

Other solder tips

When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more than a 1/32 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire than half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire