Life Like Proto 2000 E8/9

Scale:
HO Scale


This installation uses the following decoder:

T1



This installation of TCS T1 Decoder is for HO Scale LifeLike Proto 2000 E8/9 and was performed by A.G.

The three upper pictures shows the beautiful LifeLike Proto 2000 E8/9 with its shell on.
The three upper pictures shows the beautiful LifeLike Proto 2000 E8/9 with its shell on.
Gently unsnap tabs from circles above fuel tank on both locomotive sides. Grasping the shell at the center top of both sides (being careful not to crush the grilles), lift the shell straight up and off of the chassis.
Gently unsnap tabs from circles above fuel tank on both locomotive sides. Grasping the shell at the center top of both sides (being careful not to crush the grilles), lift the shell straight up and off of the chassis.
Picture of the locomotive with its shell taken off and original light board.
Picture of the locomotive with its shell taken off and original light board.
Remove the original light board by unscrewing two (circled in red) screws.
Remove the original light board by unscrewing two (circled in red) screws.
Cut off the blue power pick up wire the way it is shown in the picture above.
Cut off the blue power pick up wire the way it is shown in the picture above.
There are now two different blue wires on the locomotive. Desolder the blue wire that is connected to the power pick-up tab (circled in red). Solder a long wire to this tab (that will be connected to red wire of the harness, later on. Refer to it as step 4).
There are now two different blue wires on the locomotive. Desolder the blue wire that is connected to the power pick-up tab (circled in red). Solder a long wire to this tab (that will be connected to red wire of the harness, later on. Refer to it as step 4).
After the original light board was removed, desolder all wires that were connected to it.
After the original light board was removed, desolder all wires that were connected to it.
After all wires are desoldered, place the original light board back on the locomotive chassis and screw it down with the two original screws.
After all wires are desoldered, place the original light board back on the locomotive chassis and screw it down with the two original screws.
Using our harness, place a voltage limiting resistor (its value depends on the type of light being used and varies from 330 - 680 Ohm) between the white wire that comes from the harness and the white wire that is connected to the light bulb. Isolate any metal connections with Kapton tape, electrical tape, or shrinkwrap.
Using our harness, place a voltage limiting resistor (its value depends on the type of light being used and varies from 330 - 680 Ohm) between the white wire that comes from the harness and the white wire that is connected to the light bulb. Isolate any metal connections with Kapton tape, electrical tape, or shrinkwrap.
Solder the blue wire (the common wire for lights - see decoder manual for more details) that comes from the harness to the other wire of the 1.5V light bulb (white color in this case) and isolate connection. Place a little bit of solder on the tips of the two red wires (circled in red).
Solder the blue wire (the common wire for lights - see decoder manual for more details) that comes from the harness to the other wire of the 1.5V light bulb (white color in this case) and isolate connection. Place a little bit of solder on the tips of the two red wires (circled in red).
Bridge (solder together) the two red power pick up wires and solder them to the black wire of the harness as directed in the picture above. Isolate the connection.
Bridge (solder together) the two red power pick up wires and solder them to the black wire of the harness as directed in the picture above. Isolate the connection.
Solder the orange wire that comes from the harness to the blue motor wire of the locomotive and the red wire of the harness to the front, right power pick up wire that you placed in step 4. (for aditional signal pick up you can attach another wire to the rear, right trucks pad - cannot be seen as it is underneath of the light board.)
Solder the orange wire that comes from the harness to the blue motor wire of the locomotive and the red wire of the harness to the front, right power pick up wire that you placed in step 4. (for aditional signal pick up you can attach another wire to the rear, right trucks pad - cannot be seen as it is underneath of the light board.)
Here is a picture of completed T1 decoder installation. Hold the shell in one hand and the chassis in your other hand. Lining up the front of both pieces, lower the shell onto the chassis, keeping the lower edge of the shell parallel with the chassis. Continue lowering shell until the four round tabs on the chassis (two on each side, just above the fuel tank) are visible through the four circular holes on the shell.
Here is a picture of completed T1 decoder installation. Hold the shell in one hand and the chassis in your other hand. Lining up the front of both pieces, lower the shell onto the chassis, keeping the lower edge of the shell parallel with the chassis. Continue lowering shell until the four round tabs on the chassis (two on each side, just above the fuel tank) are visible through the four circular holes on the shell.

Important Soldering Tip

Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. Over time, the acidic properties of liquid or paste flux will begin eating away at the fiberglass PCB and will damage it. Use only Rosin-core solder or no-clean flux approved for electronics use.

TCS recommends the use of Kester "44" Sn63 Pb37, .015" diameter Rosin-core solder. Kester part number 24-6337-0007.

You can order this solder from the following retailers:
Digikey - PN:KE1110-ND
Techni-Tool - PN:488SO6775

Other solder tips

When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more than a 1/32 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire than half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire