Hornby GWR Prairie 61xx Class 2-6-2

Scale:
HO Scale


This installation uses the following decoder:

T1



TCS T1 Decoder Installation for HO-Scale New edition DCC ready Hornby GWR Prairie 61xx class 2-6-2 Tank Locomotive. It was performed by Robert Lewis of Tilehust, Reading, United Kingdom.

Hornby GWR Prairie tank 61XX Class 2-6-2.
Hornby GWR Prairie tank 61XX Class 2-6-2.
To remove the body, undo the slotted screw (1) to remove pony wheels, then remove the crosshead screw (2) to release the body from the chassis, the rear to the chassis attaches via slots in the rear bunker.  Lift the front end of the body up first then gently slide the body back a few  millimeter's before lifting off completely.
To remove the body, undo the slotted screw (1) to remove pony wheels, then remove the crosshead screw (2) to release the body from the chassis, the rear to the chassis attaches via slots in the rear bunker. Lift the front end of the body up first then gently slide the body back a few millimeter's before lifting off completely.
De solder the 2 black wires  connected to the capacitor. De solder or cut capacitor from motor terminals, ( I have left it attached to one contact in case I want to revert back to normal DC in the future),
The unused wires I have cut quite short (25mm / 1")  and insulated, the red, black, grey and orange I trimmed to about 100mm / 4" long.  Connect the red decoder wire to the black wire which emerges from the chassis through the drive worm cut-out, make sure to insulate the joint. Connect the black wire to the black wire which is connected to the screw tag, again insulate the joint.
Connect the orange wire to the right hand motor terminal and the grey to the left. 
Test the installation at this stage.
I have routed all four wires to the right hand side and stuck with hot melt glue to the chassis. I also stuck the decoder to the inside of the body using hot melt glue, due to the irregular shape of the body double sided tape would not hold. If the decoder is pushed over to the left there is just enough room to tuck the unused wires between the body and the decoder connector. The wires to the motor can just be seen through the cab side opening, some matt black paint could be used to hide these. Refit the body, trying to form the wires to lay on the cab floor. refit the cross head screw (do not over tighten) and then the pony truck with the slotted screw.
De solder the 2 black wires connected to the capacitor. De solder or cut capacitor from motor terminals, ( I have left it attached to one contact in case I want to revert back to normal DC in the future), The unused wires I have cut quite short (25mm / 1") and insulated, the red, black, grey and orange I trimmed to about 100mm / 4" long. Connect the red decoder wire to the black wire which emerges from the chassis through the drive worm cut-out, make sure to insulate the joint. Connect the black wire to the black wire which is connected to the screw tag, again insulate the joint. Connect the orange wire to the right hand motor terminal and the grey to the left. Test the installation at this stage. I have routed all four wires to the right hand side and stuck with hot melt glue to the chassis. I also stuck the decoder to the inside of the body using hot melt glue, due to the irregular shape of the body double sided tape would not hold. If the decoder is pushed over to the left there is just enough room to tuck the unused wires between the body and the decoder connector. The wires to the motor can just be seen through the cab side opening, some matt black paint could be used to hide these. Refit the body, trying to form the wires to lay on the cab floor. refit the cross head screw (do not over tighten) and then the pony truck with the slotted screw.

Important Soldering Tip

Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. Over time, the acidic properties of liquid or paste flux will begin eating away at the fiberglass PCB and will damage it. Use only Rosin-core solder or no-clean flux approved for electronics use.

TCS recommends the use of Kester "44" Sn63 Pb37, .015" diameter Rosin-core solder. Kester part number 24-6337-0007.

You can order this solder from the following retailers:
Digikey - PN:KE1110-ND
Techni-Tool - PN:488SO6775

Other solder tips

When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more than a 1/32 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire than half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire