GSB SD40-2W

Scale:
HO Scale


This installation uses the following decoder:

T1



The installation is for HO-Scale GSB SD40-2W. It uses T1 decoder and was performed by Jean Lacroix.

This model was custom painted in CN colors and modified by adding a Canadian wide nose cab. In order to remove the body, you will have to remove the 2 screws that hold the plastic fuel tank underneath the locomotive.
This model was custom painted in CN colors and modified by adding a Canadian wide nose cab. In order to remove the body, you will have to remove the 2 screws that hold the plastic fuel tank underneath the locomotive.
Two other screws, hidden by the white metal fuel tank, holds the body and you will have to remove them as well. The body should now come off easily.
Two other screws, hidden by the white metal fuel tank, holds the body and you will have to remove them as well. The body should now come off easily.
You will then have to disconnect all the wires, red and black, that are hooked on the two motor poles. The red wire sits on top of the motor and the black wires run underneath part of the frame and are somewhat hidden. The best way to cut the power that runs in the black wire is to cut it as shown in the picture above.
You will then have to disconnect all the wires, red and black, that are hooked on the two motor poles. The red wire sits on top of the motor and the black wires run underneath part of the frame and are somewhat hidden. The best way to cut the power that runs in the black wire is to cut it as shown in the picture above.
You will solder the orange wire from the harness on top of the motor and the grey to the contact of the motor located below in between the frame. Then, solder the black wire of the harness to the black wires that come from both trucks and the red one to the red wires that power the other side.
You will solder the orange wire from the harness on top of the motor and the grey to the contact of the motor located below in between the frame. Then, solder the black wire of the harness to the black wires that come from both trucks and the red one to the red wires that power the other side.
The blue and the white wires are connected to the front headlight LED as per instructions that come with the T1. The LED was then glued to the clear lens located inside the nose of the locomotive. The yellow was not used for the backup light. Cut back the violet and the green and put liquid tape or electrical tape at their ends. Make sure you use shrink tubing over each connection between wires. The decoder can then simply installed just in front of the big weight that sits on top of the motor or on top of the front truck and held in place with double-sided tape. You are now ready to reinstall the body doing the opposite of what you have done earlier.
The blue and the white wires are connected to the front headlight LED as per instructions that come with the T1. The LED was then glued to the clear lens located inside the nose of the locomotive. The yellow was not used for the backup light. Cut back the violet and the green and put liquid tape or electrical tape at their ends. Make sure you use shrink tubing over each connection between wires. The decoder can then simply installed just in front of the big weight that sits on top of the motor or on top of the front truck and held in place with double-sided tape. You are now ready to reinstall the body doing the opposite of what you have done earlier.

Important Soldering Tip

Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. Over time, the acidic properties of liquid or paste flux will begin eating away at the fiberglass PCB and will damage it. Use only Rosin-core solder or no-clean flux approved for electronics use.

TCS recommends the use of Kester "44" Sn63 Pb37, .015" diameter Rosin-core solder. Kester part number 24-6337-0007.

You can order this solder from the following retailers:
Digikey - PN:KE1110-ND
Techni-Tool - PN:488SO6775

Other solder tips

When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more than a 1/32 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire than half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire