Fleischmann 4430 BR614

Scale:
HO Scale


This installation uses the following decoder:

T1



The installation is for HO-Scale Fleischmann 4430 BR614. It uses a T1 decoder and was performed by Ric Bogart of Osborne Park, WA, Australia.

This is a Fleischmann DMU Model from the late 70's and can be easily converted to DCC (see exploded view below).

The Roof is held on with plastic spring clips, care must be taken when removing and installing the roof piece to not break these.

Power collection from the track is from both Bogies and all wiring goes to the circuit board in the top of the DMU unit.

Once the Motor has been removed from the unit (as per Fleischmann's Instructions)

Wires can be unsoldered and the motor is then disassembled. Remove the Brush Holder Clips and the Motor Brushes. Then unscrew the motor side cover and remove.

The power collection piece can be left in place. Remove the two cokes also as these will be in the way when cutting the circuit board.

These Models have a Motor Side panel which is best described as a Circuit board, Insulated on the back.

When cutting the metal of the Motor Side plate I used a Hobby drill like a Dremmel

With a tiny cutting or grinding disk. Take care not to cut too deep!

This will isolate the motor body from the �ve side of the motor.
The Roof is held on with plastic spring clips, care must be taken when removing and installing the roof piece to not break these. Power collection from the track is from both Bogies and all wiring goes to the circuit board in the top of the DMU unit. Once the Motor has been removed from the unit (as per Fleischmann's Instructions) Wires can be unsoldered and the motor is then disassembled. Remove the Brush Holder Clips and the Motor Brushes. Then unscrew the motor side cover and remove. The power collection piece can be left in place. Remove the two cokes also as these will be in the way when cutting the circuit board. These Models have a Motor Side panel which is best described as a Circuit board, Insulated on the back. When cutting the metal of the Motor Side plate I used a Hobby drill like a Dremmel With a tiny cutting or grinding disk. Take care not to cut too deep! This will isolate the motor body from the �ve side of the motor.
Note: The two cuts

Test with a multi-meter to make sure you have isolated the three sections.
Note: The two cuts Test with a multi-meter to make sure you have isolated the three sections.
Now it is time to resolder the wiring on the motor.

Grey wire from the decoder to the �ve motor connection (see the previous picture).

Orange wire to the +ve Connection.

Resolder the blue wire from the top circuit board.

Add the black wire and solder in place.

Reassemble the motor bogie and put back in place

The top circuit board must also be modified (see below) then reassembled.
Now it is time to resolder the wiring on the motor. Grey wire from the decoder to the �ve motor connection (see the previous picture). Orange wire to the +ve Connection. Resolder the blue wire from the top circuit board. Add the black wire and solder in place. Reassemble the motor bogie and put back in place The top circuit board must also be modified (see below) then reassembled.
Now the rest of the wiring can be cut to length and soldered into place.
Now the rest of the wiring can be cut to length and soldered into place.
Black wire from the decoder to the left side rail power supply.

Red Wire to the right side rail power supply.

White to the forward headlight.

Yellow to the taillight connections.

The blue wire was not used to provide power for the headlights, the existing connection through the body of the loco was utilized to give half wave power.

Clip the roof back on and the 614 is ready to go.
Black wire from the decoder to the left side rail power supply. Red Wire to the right side rail power supply. White to the forward headlight. Yellow to the taillight connections. The blue wire was not used to provide power for the headlights, the existing connection through the body of the loco was utilized to give half wave power. Clip the roof back on and the 614 is ready to go.

Important Soldering Tip

Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. Over time, the acidic properties of liquid or paste flux will begin eating away at the fiberglass PCB and will damage it. Use only Rosin-core solder or no-clean flux approved for electronics use.

TCS recommends the use of Kester "44" Sn63 Pb37, .015" diameter Rosin-core solder. Kester part number 24-6337-0007.

You can order this solder from the following retailers:
Digikey - PN:KE1110-ND
Techni-Tool - PN:488SO6775

Other solder tips

When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more than a 1/32 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire than half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire